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Flooding on Christmas Eve – 4. January, 2012

Christmas day for 2011 is expected to be a wet, with NEA issuing warnings of localized flash floods with high tides that coincide with rains from North East monsoon.

The rains did not discourage us from camping on Christmas eve. It have been a magical night for us in the past. Once 3 piglets came out from the bush and came near us.

piglets on christmas eve

Despite heavy rain forecasts, the rains were however light. We were able to walk to the jetty to see if the anglers were lucky. 2 tourists with luggage were stranded, they arrived late at 10pm and there are no transport to the Ubin only resort 2.5km away. Fortunately we were able make phone contacts which must been a great relief for them.

There was another surprise waiting for us when we headed back to our camp. We found the village square ankle deep in seawater that rose with the tide. This is unexpected as high tide for the night was 3.36m, which is not as high compared the year high of 3.65m on 20 Feb 2011.

Flooding on Christmas eve – Picture by Andy Ho
ubin village flooded

Tides pushing seawater into Ubin village on 20 Feb 2011
minor flooding

Googling turn out a treasure trove of information. Sea-level at Straits of Johore (between Johore and Singapore) are higher compared to other parts of Singapore due to North-east monsoon winds pushing water and currents into the straits, which is further blocked by Singapore-Johore causeway.

Sea level anomalies higher than 30cm would result in the flooding we observed that night. Checking MPA records for Tanjong Pagar tide station for the same night also confirmed tide anomaly of +0.34m. The reverse of -0.2m would occur during south-west monsoon when the straits become a shelter instead.

We saw earthworms wriggling to higher surface to escape saltwater. The effect can be catastrophic as seawater pushes further inland. Durian trees and other land plants die when their roots are submerged.

Along with global warming and rising sea levels causing frequent floods, monsoon surges is another major factor as our island state struggles to contain and manage.

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Full moon eclipse – 18. December, 2011

My nephew has completed his PSLE, and like most 12 years old kid, is thoroughly frightened of the dark. Its time for him to learn how to overcome his fears before he start secondary school so we arrange a night camp in Pulau Ubin. The trip was planned with comfort in mind. A hammock so he can sleep between us, barbeques with lots of food, and a short walk in full moon light with bright flashlights.

The rains has started early in November 2012 and December is expected to be just as rainy. We didn’t expect to see much of the eclipse in the poor weather. But heavens was smiling at us and we were treated to a sight of full moon eclipse, with the next one expected in 2014.

We didn’t come prepared with advanced camera gears and long lenses, fortunately my new Nikon V1 point and shoot was just able to capture the enchanting sight.

full moon eclipse dec 2011

It was an eye opening trip for the little boy. The sky was lit up with stars with Orion constellation clearly visible.

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Best fishing times – 16. December, 2011

surf casting at changi point

Here are the fishing calendars for Pulau Ubin based on Garmin GPS. Garmin uses its own secret recipe, something that got to do with Solunar Theory. The periods happen to coincide with the 1st and 15th day of Chinese Lunar Calendar.

Best fishing forecasts for Pulau Ubin.

January 2012
- Sun 08 ~ Wed 11
- Sun 22 ~ Wed 25
Feb 2012
- Tue 07 ~ Fri 10
- Tue 21 ~ Fri 24
Mar 2012
- Wed 07 ~ Sat 10
- Wed 21 ~ Sun 25

For those using traditional Chinese lunar or moon calendars, you can click the links below the lunar date and tide times for Pulau Ubin.

Jan 2012
Feb 2012
Mar2012

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Pulau Ubin November 2011 – 14. November, 2011

Like mainland Singapore, November is unusually rainy, although not as severe as experienced in other countries. At least the haze from Indonesia is cleared, with plenty of photo opportunities in bright daylight with beautiful clouds.

sailing with dad


cloudy day

But just as sudden, storms appeared and anyone caught out soon got soaked.

Soaked

The rains soon stopped with soft back-lit scenes and romance in the air.

romantic couple


Village pets

bumboat ride video

Photography notes: Pictures 1,2,4,5,6 is taken with Nikon’s new V1 camera. Pictures 3,7 with Sigma DP1.

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Outdoors gadgets – 6. November, 2011

We are always for new gadgets to try out in Pulau Ubin. Here are some we have bought.

Flashlights

flashlight line-up

The biggest collection we have tried are flashlights. Gone are the days we would carry heavy flashlights with bagful of expensive batteries and spare bulbs for camping overnight. New and evolving LED technology made flashlights a lot lighter, reliable, longer lasting and powerful at the same time. As tools, we are also looking for ones that is well machined with quality materials, and have been very impressed with SC600 Cree XM-L 750Lm Flashlight 18650 by Zebralight. Update 14 Nov. We have just ordered the new neutral white version (ZLSC600w). Update 28 Nov. We received the SC600w over the weekend and tested at the about to be demolished Bukit Brown cemetery. It emits a huge wall of light. To a group trekking there, its bright as a car with headlights on. Run time is impressive with a single 18650 battery used for a 2 hours walk, lasting much longer with AW 18650 3100 mAh battery which we would soon order. This will be our next durian hunting flashlight, allowing us to take census count of number of durians from the tallest tree, and allowing us to sweep for hours to find them as they fall and roll hidden in the jungle floor.

SC600

Digital cameras
It is tiring carrying a heavy DSLR to Pulau Ubin, with dripping sweat and oily repellents gumming up its knobs and switches.

The efforts paid off, like this baby owl taken in extreme low light conditions with a Nikon D3s. (Taken by Andy Ho)
spotty wood owl

But there are days where we have too many things to carry so our gear needs to be light. Nikon 1 series V1 camera looks promising. What I like so far its its ability to take fast moving subjects in focus. Like these dogs running and playing.

mickey running
Click for animated gif


Helmet cam

Digital cameras nowadays are capable of motion videos. But few are completely waterproof or as versatile than GoPro 2 which is now available in Singapore. With so many questions from first time visitors about Pulau Ubin, short clips would be useful to get a feel what it is like and for archiving disappearing scenes.

Bumboat ride.Click to play.
bumboat ride

Trail Cameras

I haven’t seen mousedeers and otters in Pulau Ubin which others have spotted. Other elusive creatures include swamp mouse with its white colored belly. Maybe I get lucky with this trail camera on special offer by Amazon.

trail camera

Despite its flimsy looking construction, its small and comparatively cheap. Unfortunately it draws attention due to its blinking LEDs used to take infrared photographs in total darkness. One its first night I gulped when I saw a guy in shadow silently coming out from the direction I set the trail cam. Next the weather turn stormy and it rained heavily non-stop for a few hours. The silent guy have missed it and it survived the rain. Only one picture was taken but no animal was seen. Maybe its too fast. It must have spooked a village dog sleeping near us which jumped in fright and howled in all four directions. Must be a large boar. Hopefully we will be lucky the next time.

Walky talkies

Consumer walky talkies we used so far have been disappointing, with signal breakups just a few hundred metres apart. The Motorola TLKR T7 is designed for outdoor sports use. Then again it may not. I bought it for its included accessories like twin charging bay and that it is approved for local use without requiring a license or paying annual fees. Despite its limited practical use, the kids look forward to play with them during school holidays.

Handheld GPS

Garmin Montana

The Garmin Montana is a bright touch screen designed for dual function as vehicle GPS which you can use with free downloadable maps for many Asean countries. Although most GPS should work in Pulau Ubin, the Montana proved itself to be very useful when I was in Phuket. Despite pouring rain, I was able to navigate by listening to its spoken road directions through a ear-piece.

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Pulau Ubin October 2011 – 3. October, 2011

For many visitors Pulau Ubin may be just a convenient getaway to spend an afternoon of fun cycling with friends and family members.

For some of us, we would pass through an abandoned building or deserted plantation grove, wondering what was it like, back then when the island was a community of immigrants and natives with its own school, mosque, rubber and pineapples plantations.

Future visitors may not have the chance see any remnants. Everything now has a price for the highest bidder. Despite the island given ‘protected’ status, this blog have been searched for information on buying lands in Pulau Ubin. ‘Land grabs’ of prized locations have already begun. Whole quarry with its scenic lake is fenced off for a tertiary organization. Rumors abound about big boys bidding for restaurant license for integrated resort development. Coastal fish farming with its low environmental impact are told to be productive or be forced to closed for other developments to take its place. The inter-connecting wetlands that stood against bull-dozing tide of human development may be helpless this time if the rumors are true.


fish farms off Pulau Ubin

Fish farms uncertain future.

Then there are other irks like poachers seeking information how to trap monitor lizards, catching wild pigs and snakes, whatever that are left in Pulau Ubin to be picked over. There are even survivor camps organized to teach kids how to catch them. The assault comes from all fronts, even from its supposed protector. Pits dug to catch pigs for research were not filled posing latent danger. Non-biodegradable PVC tapes wrapped around thousands of trees for census counts are not removed causing fungal rot. New location signs are put up full of misspellings including sungi for sungei, sarau for surau, malayu for melayu.

The preference of getting contractors for park maintenance pose other risks. Their workers have been caught for poaching before. Oysters growing on the rocks at Chek Jawa have been pried loose in large numbers indicating illegal harvesting. The contractors are paid by the dying trees they chopped down but their death can be easily hasten by household detergents and other liquids.

animal pit left uncovered
Animal pit left uncovered

pvc tag not removed
PVC tag not removed
As this country frown on anything pagan or any organic community self-expression (recently cancelling the popular Halloween zoo event), I went to Phuket for the vegetarian festival, hoping to get a feel of island culture similar to Pulau Ubin. The trip was worthwhile, with whole local community throbbing alive wearing whites and going vegan for 2 weeks. The procession and the merry-making would be familiar for those now in their fifties and sixties.

Devotees in trance turning on themselves
Phuket vegetarian festival

Phuket vegetarian festival

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Chek Jawa in September – 3. September, 2011

The weather has been cooler lately due to South West Monsoon. Despite the haze from Indonesia and less than ideal conditions for photography, Chek Jawa has always been one of our favorite visit spots in Pulau Ubin.

South West Monsoon weather features according to NEA.

  • Showers and thunderstorms occurs between predawn and midday.
  • Intense thunderstorms or squals that last for less than 30 minutes.
  • Smoke haze is common.
  • The piglets are still there although their baby stripes are gone.

    wild pigs at chek jawa

    The rain shelter at Chek Jawa Coastal Walk is one our favorite spot for a lazy afternoon. Here, you can do some bird watching or plane spotting as they land against prevailing monsoon winds.

    Chek Jawa Coastal Walk

    A white bellied sea eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster) clutching its prey.

    Qantas A380 Flight QF10 from London coming to land at Changi Airport
    Qantas A380

    For romance of sea travels, the sight of ships steaming straight towards us guided by Chek Jawa land beacons must be an inspiring sight!

    Chek Jawa land beacon

    3G connection may be spotty in other parts of Ubin but its good here.
    3G Connection

    Its dark by the time we headed back. A rare sight of a large scorpion, its size compared to a folded note.
    large scorpion

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    Ghost Month in Ubin – 7. August, 2011

    Chinese street opera
    Teochew street opera troupe from Bangkok performance on 14 Aug 2011. The troupe regularly performed at Ubin during 7th Month Festivals.

    Chinese people consider 7th lunar month (July 31 to Aug 28, 2011) as time where hell gates are open for hungry ghosts to roam the earth. Since there are many hits this month for Ubin ghost stories and where in Pulau Ubin they are most prevalent, I might as well share mine.

    The ghost most commonly heard is usually the lady in white at Noordin beach. It is likely people are repeating urban legends heard since they were kids. For Ubin villagers it is often the ghost that cause them to walk in circles. Heard this when I was a kid too, the ghost will feed lost children with delicious food like chicken thighs but are actually grasshopper legs. The usual remedy is to pull down your pants and waving it over your head as doing so will remove the spell cast by the ghost.

    Asian children may be preoccupied with ghosts, but for western kids, its fairy tales with themes of being eaten like Big Red Riding Hood and Hansel and Gretel. Stories which psychoanalysts believe is a way young children cope and confront their own problems and inner conflicts.

    In our case, the strange encounter happened while we are picking durians on 9 July 2011. Earlier we caught a distinctive scent of freshly dropped durian a metre or two away near an abandoned house but were puzzled as we just couldn’t find that elusive durian despite repeat searches. For a moment we thought a ghost has us tricked. Later as we doze in our camp nearby, we woke up to find ourselves in pitch darkness despite having our candles lighted. Pulau Ubin is never completely dark at night, even on moonless nights you can still discern the sky and dim outlines of tree shadows and path ahead. For a moment I thought I have gone totally blind until my vision was completely restored a minute later to my relief. Didn’t know we have the same experience until my friend asked if there was a blackout last night.

    Although there are no full moon eclipse that night, there is probably some scientific reason for this. For now I am filing it as ghost encounter where we were placed under its spell.

    Chinese people believe its bad luck to encounter ghosts. Its must be very bad luck for me indeed. A few days later I met with a traffic accident which landed me in hospital for nearly a week with broken ribs but fortunately no permanent injury.

    Jangan Shortfilm is a local Indie production about a group of paranormal enthusiasts who went for a night trip of exploring a haunted place. Their filming on location near our camp at Pulau Ubin makes an interesting night for us. Filming was completed on the eve of Ghost month and their first installment is on Youtube. Congratulations to DslrIndieFilm and its enthusiastic film crew.

    Jangan ShortFilm

    Here is one my sister told me. She still remembered all the story details despite watching the movie more than 40 years ago.

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    Durian Season 2011 – 27. June, 2011

    Update 23 October 2011

    According to Ubin villagers. A mini durian season is expected in November 2011. Harvest quality is not expected due to constant rains. For die-hard pickers.

    Update 10 July 2011

    Its the height of the durian season in Ubin with most of the durians already dropped. Still there are some late bloomers trees which should start dropping in the coming week before the season ends. This year’s harvests has been lower than previous year.

    We got about seven durians last night. 2 of them are very good. One was dry with slight bitterness. Another was sweet. Rest have rotted or worms infested.

    My friend KP Tan who helped out on the island saw massive crowds who heard of free durians, some carrying scraps of newspapers cutting with maps purportedly showing locations of durians. I haven’t seen the cuttings but if true, such tabloid journalism can put people into danger. The jungle floor near demolished houses contains rusty spikes and broken glasses. There are more than 10 deep boar pits dotted about which have been neglected. The villagers have reported their pets missing so we do not know if they are victims of predators or if they have fallen into the pits. One can easily fall into them and break a leg.

    As durian gathering is added fun for a night camping, I am also looking for ways to enhance my enjoyment.

    Getting enough sleep outdoors is a challenge. Hard sleeping surface makes one turn about to ease pressure build-up and resulting discomfort. For this I bought a Therm-a-Rest air mattress to improve sleeping comfort. This air mattress is too expensive, bulky and takes too long to deflate so hammocks might be better solution.

    As most local ones are cheaply made, its another Amazon shopping spree to get one that works for heavy folks. Shopping with Amazon is excellent with timely shipping and immediate refunds for loss. They are shipped using Vpost to save on shipping (Customer service is poorer with Vpost, but it the only option for retailers who does not ship internationally). Fortunately, they arrived in time for this camping trip and the whole idea worked (although time will tell) and I slept well without backaches.

    Here are the details for those interested. I got the Eagles Nest SingleNest Hammock which is able to bear loads up to 180 kilos. A generous safety margin is needed as the whole system is subjected to uneven weight stress. The hammock does not come with suspension ropes to allow for customization. For this I bought military grade 1″ tubular webbings from Sheares Marketing to wrap around trees without strangling or damaging them. 4 meters lengths at each ends should be slip proof and sufficient to wound the trunk a few times. In addition I bought 2 pairs suspension rings from a ship hardware shop in Sungei rd for each end to form a quick release system and to prevent dead knots. As usual, watch youtube videos and read camping forums on how to set hammocks correctly and safely.

    Update 2 July 2011

    Our friends at Naked Hermit Crabs are planning a Chek Jawa boardwalk nature trip cum durian gathering on Saturday 9 July at 9.30am. Highly recommended. You’ll need to be at Changi Jetty by 8.00am to reach there on time.

    Update 26 June 2011.

    Durian season has just started in Pulau Ubin. The early fruits are usually premature or rotten ones. We camped overnight as it is fun as always. We brought our newly purchased flashlights to see how they performed in durian seeking department. The latest Surefire 3 cell ‘Invictus UB3T’ did not disappoint, the most powerful yet. It was able to light up durians from the topmost tree for a ‘census count’. The rate the durians fall over the next month will help us determine when it peaks to plan our next overnight camping trip.

    counting durians with surefire invictus

    We also brought Malkoff high-cri drop-ins. I am impressed by its excellent color rendition, good-runtime and excellent flood. Zebralight headlamps are a class of their own also. More pictures will be posted.

    Line-up of flashlights we brought.
    flashlight line-up

    For boys and girls, your requests are being heard. Since there are so many search requests for “Ubin ghost”, this is probably how she looks like when we found her. Full details embargoed for now.

    Ubin ghost

    Update 12 Jun 2011. Durian season must be in the air. This site got so many hits for latest durian season updates. Went to the trees where I took pictures of its blossoms. It a total fail for one tree as none of its flowers got pollinated with no fruit. The other was a lot more promising with clusters of growing durian fruits. That was two weeks ago and a number of nonviable small ones have already dropped prematurely. Ubin’s durian season 2011 should start end June but no bumper harvest is expected. Meanwhile I went to Giant Hypermart just before closing and bought the “cat mountain king (猫山王)”, custard like and slightly bitter with ample flesh with its small seeds, at half price.

    Update 2 April 2011: The full season should start at around July. Durian buds are now appearing. This is the actual photo taken. I will be tracking its growth stages for the next few months.

    durian buds

    Update 18 April 2011
    Durian flowers blossom at night and by midday they would fall and the grounds will be covered with them. Luckily I managed to catch them at mid-bloom. The air is sweet with their fragrance. And some say they taste great when cooked with curry!

    durian flower blossoms

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    Chek Jawa wild piglets – 8. June, 2011

    Its rare to see wild piglets up close, all five of them, including an older sibling watching over them. NPark workers have also seen another family group of nine piglets, they are seldom seen after poachers tried to catch them. Their baby stripes will soon fade so don’t miss the chance to take pictures of them when they emerge from the bushes near Punai Hut.

    Updated June 2011.


    Pair of piglets

    kneeling piglet

    Five piglets

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    Pulau Ubin for kids – 9. May, 2011

    Pulau Ubin for children is safe if you are an alert parent and mindful of activities that may pose dangers for little kids. Visitors fall in love with the Ubin’s rustic charms and would rent bicycles to ride with their children, hoping to share their childhood memories together. But there are many up and down slopes and like all kids, it is fun to coast downhill without realizing the dangers of uncontrolled descent. Bicycles for children are often gearless requiring more leg power while tandem bikes are hard to handle on uneven terrain. Tired muscles affect judgments resulting in accidents.

    A sleepy child may just nod and topple off.
    Sleepy kids behind wheel

    Your maid may have excellent skills cycling while holding an umbrella, but not on Ubin’s difficult terrain. Why not change your plans and walk instead.
    Cycling while holding umbrella

    Safer way is to hire van-taxis or take enjoyable walks. Places to explore include Npark secret garden which is free of vehicles.

    Scarecrow at Nparks secret garden
    scarecrow

    Ubin village itself is worth exploring too with its wooden houses and a wayang stage. Further inland, the Malay kampong is another interesting place to visit and relax in, especially during durian season :) . Also Marman beach is a nice place for picnicking especially in December and January when it is cool and breezy. The “Orchid farm” is also nearby where kids can peer at some cute rabbits.

    Fishing may be a good way to bond with kids but their fingers are often clumsy with hooks. Using nets and pails would be better especially along the shore near Ubin jetty. Older kids may explore the rock pools where small fishes and creatures are trapped during low tides. They should be supervised as the rocks can be slippery.

    Another great way for family enjoyment and bonding is do a perception walk. Parents can help their kids pick out seashells, round pebbles, rubber seeds, looking for flowering grass or count the number of coconuts on a tree, experiences shopping malls cannot offer.

    Discovering water wells
    village well

    Here is a short reminder to bring along for your next trip.

  • Snacks and plain water as convenience stores are located at the village only
  • Small first aid kit including ointment and sun lotion
  • Mosquito repellents
  • Disposable rain coats during rainy seasons
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    Island Festivals – 8. May, 2011

    Pulau Ubin Tua Pek Kong festival will be held on 16 May 2011 over the next few days. Vesak day falls on 17 May so it will be a good time to visit Pulau Ubin.

    Pulau Ubin island festivals are held in honor of Tua Pek Kong, considered by residents as the guardian of the island. Although Pulau Ubin was invaded by the Japanese Imperial Army in WWII, the populations were spared the massacres and atrocities during the occupation.

    young stage actress

    Colorful lanterns and bright colored flags adorn the jetty.
    Colorful flags at Jetty

    The Chinese wayang or opera stage has been around since the early sixties when it was built for community use by a rich timber merchant. Empty most of the time, the stage is lighted up 2 times a year during religious festivals.

    Elaborate Chinese street operas are held to honor Chinese dieties housed in the temple opposite the stage. According to local elders, this is a ‘reflection’ temple built for convenient access. The 150 years old original temple is further up on a hill side a few hundred metres away and its dieties carried down ceremoniously to be entertained during festival periods.


    wayang stage

    Tiger Diety 虎爺
    Tiger diety
    Different forms of tiger dieties

    Backstage
    Backstage


    backstage

    Showtime
    Chinese opera

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    Hiking in Pulau Ubin – 1. April, 2011

    Pulau Ubin is a fun place for hiking or taking nature walks. On the move cyclling or in rental vans our city instincts take over and we are always thinking on the next place to visit instead of soaking in the surrounding sights and sound of the moment. If you are a regular to the island, you should definitely consider exploring Ubin on foot.

    Beautiful sunny day walk
    sunny day walk

    Meditative walk through ‘Orchid Farm’ at Sg. Marman.
    Meditative walk

    You can start by renting bicycles to give you an idea where are the places you like to visit on foot. Alternatively, stick to vehicle trails if you are new to Pulau Ubin and walking all the way to Chek Jawa. The trip (and back) takes about 7 kilometres which can be tiring as many found out. Instead, cover half of it by taking van taxis and walking for the other half. There are Npark rain shelters along the way to take rest stops.

    Another walking route is follow the “Discovery trail” that lead behind police coast guard station, continue further north, taking a rest at Murai hut and exploring the surrounding Malay Kampong, then turning back and returning directly to Ubin village.

    It may be quiet which is welcomed for some but unsettling for others. Pulau Ubin is safe with frequent police patrols and the villagers watching over. There are plenty of visitors in the morning and early afternoons although the crowds thin considerably toward late afternoons. This is when one is rewarded with sights of shy animals or hear full throated and melodious bird calls. But it not akin to visiting the zoo and being disappointed when you did not encounter any. Besides, it is far more enjoyable walk than Macritchie trails along Island country club (SICC) which is a dead zone due to frequent insect fumigation for comfort of their members.

    Some people are spooked when they stumbled into gravestones. In the not so distant past Pulau Ubin is inhabited with more than 1,000 residents, many of who were Boyanese (or Baweanese) from Indonesia. Chek Jawa were so named because of their Javanese origins. It is common to have family grave plots although there are larger Chinese and Muslim cemetery plots in Ubin. Thankfully, the authorities are leaving them untouched to keep the island’s historical roots intact.

    old muslim gravestone

    On the other hand, the authorities seem to be in a hurry to change names of old landmarks. Pulau Ubin is in danger of being smothered into another botanical garden by Nparks in its misguided efforts, with carpet grass on both sides of the road, instead of the riot of beautiful plants growing wild which visitors from afar come to see. Tree plaque are erected but limited (so far) to common trees like banana, oil palm with their Latin names. A short description would be more useful.

    Type “rustic pulau ubin” in google search and one will find that it is most popular description for visitors. Tourist development of the island should proceed preserving its charms. Its disappointing to see jarring signs popping up like “private property” over scenic quarry lakes and advertising banners promoting $10 seafood, snorkeling over pristine coral reefs (there aren’t any) and fish spas with non native fishes.

    Make sure you check NEA website on water quality before you swim in local waters or look out for this sign. I had a very bad ear infection in Koh Samui after dipping my head in a still water pond so its important to check if the waters is clean enough if you are planning to snorkel in it.

    NEA warning

    Kg Sungi (Sungai) Durian cemetery named for a few family grave plots
    Kg Sungi Durian

    You may buy drinks along the way but do bring a small bottle of plain water as there are no drink stalls (or toilets) for 2 kms towards Chek Jawa. There are vending machines but the visitor counter was out of coins when I was there the last time. Although cases of malaria and dengue fever are almost unheard of in Pulau Ubin, do use mosquito repellents to keep biting insects at bay and for children comfort. Disposable plastic raincoats are useful which are sold at the village. Get some snacks also as one gets hungry soon enough.

    Caught in heavy thunderstorms
    djsposable raincoats

    Although Nparks have erected fences and barriers, it is safe enough to venture off beaten paths. Most of Pulau Ubin jungles were once rubber plantations, the rubber trees extensive creeping roots keep bekular or dense thickets from forming impenetrable barriers.

    For bushwacking, a machete would be useful for crossing fallen trees (its easy to be disorientated if one walks around them) but knives are frown upon as some consider Pulau Ubin as just another city park where sights of jungle knives may cause alarm to the public. Make sure you bring along a compass even if you have a GPS with you. Do not ford deeper into sticky mud and get caught in returning tide.


    cutting through fallen trees

    If you are a student group leader, do ensure your group put away glow sticks and tree markers into trash bags instead of leaving them behind and allowing harmful tree fungi to take root. Alternatively you may use toilet rolls as trail markers which disintegrate harmlessly.

    Trail marker left behind and forgotten
    trail markers left behind and forgotten

    KP Tan has been to Ubin for the last 20 years and knows the island very well. Drop your comments if you wish to contact him as your volunteer guide.
    KP Tan

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    Tide chasing – 12. March, 2011

    I have been waiting for this ever since the night we found ourselves ankle deep in rising waters while night trekking. Periods of highest tides come to Pulau Ubin about twice a year. I was hoping it will be a spectacular event to watch and photograph.

    I almost forgot about it until NEA sent out warnings that super high tides and possible floodings is expected from 19 Feb to 21 Feb 2011.

    Bridges crossing Jelutong River along Jln Endut Senin towards Celestial Resort and Ketam Cycling Trail, as well as Jalan Noordin (near Lang Hut) towards Noordin will be flooded by overflowing waters. Except emergency police vehicles, vehicular traffic comes to a standstill to avoid fording across the extremely corrosive salt waters.

    The next hide tide is expected on 20/21 March 2011 around noon. You have about an hour time window to catch the event. Head straight to Jelutong bridge for some interesting shots.

    Story in pictures or click on this album.

    Tide level was so high that bumboat passengers were being helped down instead.

    Splashed by wake from passing boats
    splashed

    Water rising to village edge
    water rising

    Cyclists having fun

    Avoiding salt corrosion
    avoiding salt corrosion

    Hornbill feeding at Ubin jetty
    hornbill feeding at Ubin jetty

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    Pulau Ubin tide tables – 18. February, 2011

    Among the best times to visit Pulau Ubin is when it coincide with high and low tides. For anglers, estuarine fishes come alive with abundance of food churned by incoming and receding tides. Chek Jawa is best visited during times when tides are low when its shoals and rock pools exposed its myriad living creatures. In Singapore, tides are considered high when its above 3 metres and very low when its 0.3 metres and below.

    Tide Tables Publications

    NEA provides handy information which is permanently linked on the right of this page. MPA also provide tide prediction of the day. For the whole year, you’ll have to purchase their hard copy of Singapore Tide Tables Year 2012.

    But you can also find tide tables prediction free for the
    whole year or by selected date here.

    For campers, its useful also to know about moon rises and moon phases (linked right). We look forward to moonless nights where we get to see stars and exploring the island with flashlights.

    Picture by Andy Ho.
    Dragon Tail Vine (Epipremnum pinnatum)
    Dragon tail vine under full moon.

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    Flashlights – 12. February, 2011

    Night walks in Pulau Ubin can be unsettling a first timer. After hearing spooky stories, imagination runs amok when one see moving shadows among leaves caused by slight breeze and moonlight. Flashlights are reassuring. Great toys if you are a flashaholic. Best tool when looking for durians.

    flashlight line-up

    Shopping for your first flashlight can be a bewildering experience. There are many considerations choosing the right one for you.

    1. Throw. Lights that shine far are heavier as they require extra batteries and a larger reflector. Before the latest LEDs flashlights arrived, incandescent lights such as Surefire M6 would hold as many as six expensive CR123 batteries. Dedicated powerful throw lights are useful for shock and awe value but not much else. Users get tunnel vision due to extremely bright center spot. Views at longer distances are hampered by night mist and fog.

    New LED lights are being made that are good throwers with broad beams. Our current favorite is SC600w XM-L 18650 Neutral White by Zebralight.

    Durians illuminated by throw lights.
    Tree full of durians

    2. Flood. Floody lights are great for lighting up the forest floor or close range illumination. Headlamps are also in this category and Zebralight LED headlamps are my favorites.

    3. Throw and flood lights. Most LED lights come with bright hotspot for throw with side spill for flood. Deeper reflectors have greater amount of throw while dimpled or orange peel reflectors give better floods. Newer designs come with TIR optics that bend the light beams just right. The trick is to get one just right for you by trusting your own eyes. Avoid lights which allows throw to flood by zooming. Maglite is one bad case with its plastic reflector and lens, ringly beams and projected artifacts. New Cree XM-L LED lights have arrived on the scene that provides a combination of throw and flood due to its high current draw but which requires high capacity batteries. Although there is a problem of heat build-up, they can be minimized by switching to lower output.

    4. EDC (every day carry) lights . These are small and pocket-able one-cell lights designed for daily use while working reliably. They should not switch on accidentally or have its threads come loose easily inside your pockets. Type III anodizing is used to minimize wear. Besides sufficiently bright, it should also include a low brightness mode for better run-time and preserving night vision. Our current favorites include EDC Clicky flashlights (previously Ra clicky) by HDS Systems which is very reliable although pricey.

    5. Multiple stage lights. Early models include Surefire U2 using a dial knob to adjust brightness settings. It’s a expensive 2 cell light currently selling for US$290 at Amazon. Since then there are many more brands coming out with different UI (user interface), awkward ones included. Cheap ones even come with 5-8 stages including strobe and SOS functions which you have to cycle to the right setting which is slow and impractical. Get the best if you can afford it. Flashlights made by Zebralight has proven to be highly reliable.

    6. Incandescent lights. Incands are ideal for jungle use as it differentiate greens better. Unfortunately it uses up batteries quickly and get uncomfortably hot. Although becoming obsolete, they are fun to use and handy for relieving insect bites as heat source. You can also buy cheap drop-ins from DealExtreme for one cell or two cells lights. Lumensfactory.com also offers some high-end incand bulbs.

    7. LED lights. Cree LEDs are now very common with every chinese manufacturer stamping “CREE” on their brands including cheap soldered ones. There are versions such as XR-E R2, XP-E, MC-E, XP-G XM-L is the latest and is said to be the brightest and most energy efficient.

    8. High CRI LEDs vs Cool-white and Neutral-white LEDs.
    LEDs with cool white tints are brighter. Due to its blueish color cast, it gives an unnatural cast in jungle environment so LED with neutral white tints are more suitable. But not all neutral white LEDs have the same color characteristics as some are too yellow in output. High CRI LEDs are becoming popular due to its more faithful color rendition. Its light output is the weakest however. There are also no high CRI XML LEDs. Lumensfactory 3 stage warm white 90 CRI LEDs drop-in is worth checking out.

    9. Construction. Good quality flashlights are usually built tough and durable with hard coated aluminum (HA III) with “O” rings waterproofing and tempered glass lens. Less visible are electronic components that fail due to heat, poor soldering, oxidized contacts. Cheap ones are most likely to fail due to poor quality control.

    Many Chinese made lights come standard with strike bezels that tears up jeans pockets. Their thick aluminum tubes make them heavy on the pockets for neck wearing. Reverse clicky switches come mostly standard and are often cheaply made and unreliable with screw threads that easily come loose.

    Size (Clubs vs portability). A 6 D-cell maglite can be used as a defensive club. We prefer lighter flashlights and carrying extra spare should the first fail or get overheated.

    10. Mix and match parts. This is another way of getting lights that is cheap, reliable and fun. You start by ordering cheap Surefire flashlights (6p or G2) or Chinese made surefire clones online. Your purchase is future proof by ordering the latest “drop-ins”. The Cadillac of drop-ins are Malkoffs which can be ordered from www.illuminationsupply.com. Look for 3 modes configurations that switch between low, medium, high modes. Lumensfactory.com have several options available.
    You can also order a UV drop in for scorpion watching.
    Lychas Scutilus

    11. Batteries. The batteries of choice are usually Lithium CR123 which can be expensive. Flashlights enthusiasts are turning to rechargeable li-on batteries with advantages of lower running costs. Rechargeable 18650 batteries are ideal with its higher capacity. Alternatively go for safe AA versions using Sanyo Eneloop batteries.

    12. Rechargeable flashlights. It may sound convenient to have a light you can plug to a power socket, fully charged and always ready. But flashlights are failure prone and complex ones all the more so. Best is to get flashlights that use reliable AA rechargeable batteries like Sanyo Eneloop (see related posts on batteries).



    I have at least 3 different flashlights when camping. My current favorites include HDS Systems high CRI light and Zebralight headlamps.

    Zebra headlamps pleasing color rendition
    zebra light color rendition

    Colorful picture using multiple led light source.
    fish photo

    Anatomy of a good flashlight.
    Update 20 June 2010. I have received a RA clicky which is becoming my new favorite. Although expensive at S$240 its pluses include:-

    • Top notch quality HA III construction with well machined threads.
    • Low battery warning to avoid over discharge and damage to li-ion cells
    • 3 programmable brightness levels using simple single, double, triple clicks.
    • Brightness levels down to the lowest moon mode (great nightlight for restful sleep when you travel overseas).
    • Faithful color rendition (high CRI) with sufficient flood for better detail definition in forest settings and photography application.
    • Potted for resistance to shock and vibration, and for exclusion of moisture and corrosive agents.
    • Allow use of single cell rechargeable li-ion battery in addition to stock CR123 batteries.
    • Lego option including 17670 battery tube for extended runtime
    • Minus points

    • Expensive express shipping from USA.


    Chinese made and designed Zebralights.

    Zebralights is getting attention from flashaholics for its efficient and well designed one cell AA lights. We tried out its 18650 SC600 Cree XM-L light and impressed by output and compact design. So much so that we went on an acquisition spree and bought more lights including a high-CRI H51Fc AA Floody headlamp.

    There are many advantages with a high efficient AA power led light as you can use NIMH rechargeable batteries like Sanyo Eneloop which is safe and does not leak when depleted.

    Another good news is Zebralight also ship to Singapore via DHL at very affordable cost. There is a good chance of receiving next day once it is shipped.

    Based on our extensive experience with Singpost, Singapore Post service is abysmal and should be avoided if you can. Their customer service staff are totally indifferent and treat you like any snail mail user.


    4Sevens Flashlights

    4sevens produces a wide range of affordable and high-quality lights. They include limited editions runs introducing lights fitted with newest LED technology. Their customer service and order fulfillment is one of the best, with free delivery and low cost insurance as optional extra, taking about 12 days to order and deliver from USA to Singapore.

    4sevens Quark Tactical Series allows users to create different configurations with their lego heads, body tubes and tail caps. We are very impressed with the Quark “X” AA² with its bright XML led using 2 AA batteries. They have a neutral white version listed separately.

    From top – Neutral-white Quark “X(XML)” Double AA Tactical, Double AAA High CRI Preon 2 Satin Titanium, Single AAA High CRI Preon 1

    4sevenlights


    Buying Surefire lights. Surefire lights are built for combat situations so its designed to be reliable 100% and simple to operate. The manufacturer recommends only disposable CR123 (expensive) cells to be used. Do careful research on their high end lights as you may find them too specialized. You should definitely try them first by visiting Sheares marketing who is their local agent. Look out for faithful color rendition and by asking if you can test them on surrounding dark areas at night. Sheares is also local dealer for brands like Fenix, Thrunite.

    Brands I have used and liked.

    ZebraLight
    HDS Systems
    Surefire
    Jetbeam
    Fenix
    Quark lights

    Brands with mixed results.
    Streamlight, Princeton Tec (breakable plastics); Nitecore lights (many failures), Quark lights (initial QC issues).

    Do not ship with Singpost Vpost as batteries are banned. Use online-stores that ship to Singapore instead. You get full manufacturer support buying direct from on-line The ones we use include:-

    4sevens
    bugoutgear
    oveready.com (for surefire parts)
    illumination supply (for Malkoff dropins)
    goinggear.com
    hkequipment
    zebralight
    dealextreme
    lumensfactory

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    January in Ubin – 10. February, 2011

    Pulau Ubin weather is probably the mildest in December and January. Other than the monsoon trough that caused days of non-stop rains, Ubin is windy and its forests feels very much alive.

    Sailboat from nearby yacht club.
    Sailboat

    Mickey frolicking in lily pond
    Dog frolicking in lily pond

    Ubin Coast Guard station in bright sunshine
    Coast Guard Police Station

    Fishing from the jetty
    fishing from the jetty

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    Night camping – 9. February, 2011

    camping in pulau ubin

    A note on camping at Pulau Ubin beaches. Sandflies are common there. Its stuffy to seal yourself in the tent to escape from biting insects. The acrid smoke from mosquito coils also ruin the tent fabric as the smells and smoky grease stick permanently to it. Camping away from beaches also bring surprises. Once we camped by Kekek quarry and woke up to find giant monitor lizards tearing at food we left outside.

    Essential tools
    You should always bring along good flashlights with spare batteries and a Swiss army knife with built-in can opener with you.

    This way you only need to get essentials from the village provision shop to camp overnight. Here is a short checklist.

  • drinking water (at least 2 large bottles per person)
  • cigarette lighter
  • candles/tealights
  • mosquito coils / spray repellents
  • small can of insecticide (in case of ants invasion)
  • bread/snacks/canned food/instant beverages
  • toilet rolls
  • For extra comfort, here is an added checklist for your next camping trip which you can buy at Changi Village.

  • 2 men tent
  • air or foam mattress
  • light silk blanket
  • small bag of charcoals
  • fire-starter (ask for ‘Tamat’)
  • bbq wire grill
  • aluminum tray
  • metal tong
  • disposable cups/plates/chopsticks/spoons
  • Trash bag/paper tissues
  • metal mugs
  • chef blow torch
  • Camping checklist

    With these, you get hot food, hot drinks and warmth for the night.

    The aluminum tray holds the charcoal embers which you can douse with water for safe disposal. You can move it closer to you for added warmth later on. Never place them on wooden tables or boardwalks floor. It will burn through. Nparks is forced to erect uncomfortable cement tables and benches because of such thoughtless act by campers.
    For food. Try bread with charcoal grilled luncheon meat which is delicious and easy to prepare. Make sure food are secured beyond reach of foraging animals before you sleep or go on a hike. Rubbish should not be left lying around for the same reason. Tie them in bags and hang them high on branches if the rubbish bin is full.

    Preparing charcoal fire

    Light a single piece of fire-starter (the locals call it Tamat) and place it at the base. Tamat takes a while to burn out so one or 2 is enough. It is also sooty so make sure it is burnt out completely before grilling food.

    Stack long pieces of charcoals leaning against each other over the fire starter. Done correctly, the charcoals will combust into flames without fanning. Spread the burning charcoals and let the flames die out. The embers is sufficient to grill food.

    Turn often to ensure food are not burnt. Wear a headlamp to see better and check if the food is ready.


    Chef blow torch
    chef blow torch

    Another tool we find useful is a chef blow torch (picture above). A better alternative than camp gaz stove (picture below). It is compact and the gas refill last a long time and replacements are easily available. You can boil water within minutes or use it to stop invading ants or clear your bed area of creepy crawlies. You can buy the blow torch at shops selling kitchen aids or at hardware shops. Get the original Japanese iwatani brand which cost about S$40.

    camp gaz stove


    Air Mattress vs Hammocks

    Sleeping outdoors can be a challenge. Hard sleeping surface makes one turn about in discomfort. I bought a Therm-a-Rest air mattress to improve sleeping comfort. This air mattress is too expensive, bulky and takes too long to deflate. Foraging ants is another problem while sleeping on ground.

    Eagle Nest Hammock

    A high quality hammock like The Eagles Nest SingleNest Hammocks is able to bear loads up to 180 kilos. A generous safety margin is needed as the whole system is subjected to uneven weight stress. Like most hammocks sold, they don’t come with suspension ropes which needs to be just as strong. You’ll need about 4 meters lengths at each ends. For this I bought military grade 1″ tubular webbings to wrap around trees without strangling or damaging them. To create a quick release system, I bought 2 pairs of suspension rings from a ship hardware shop in Sungei road. Do watch youtube videos and read camping forums on how to set hammocks correctly and safely.

    You can buy Eagles Nest Hammocks and tubular webbings locally from Sheares Marketing.


    Jelutong Campsite.

    Jelutong campsite is located a few hundred metres next to Ubin village facing the bright lights of Singapore. Although convenient and recommended by Nparks, it takes one further away from enjoying the fun of frontier adventurism which Ubin is famous for. Do camp at Noordin or Marman beach and leave Jelutong camp for kids and those who are scared of darkness.

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    Edward Scissorhands tree – 15. January, 2011

    Edward Scissorands Poster

    Like the movie story of a man with scissors for hands. This tree in a secret part of Pulau Ubin has barbed wire for its branches.

    barbed wire tree

    Close up view
    tree with barb wire hands

    Like any tropical jungles, trees and plants fought over every inch of available ground to grow, overcoming any obstacles. This row of young saplings simply swallowed the barbed wire fence above it and made it a part of their branches.

    There is another tree in a far away land that ate a whole bicycle. As the story goes, a boy went to war in 1914 and left his bike chained to a tree. The tree ate the bike and it remains to this day.

    bicycle eating tree

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    Durian season – 3. January, 2011

    Durian season 2010
    The durians in Ubin are dropping at its peak. It will be all over in a week or so. We camped overnight determined not to miss out. The durian trees nearby are known to have the best tasting durians.

    Unlike commercially harvested durians, Ubin durians are harvested from the jungle floor as the ripe ones drop, sometimes from a great height, its spiky skin strong enough to absorb any hard landing.

    We can only hear muffled thuds so its not easy to locate durians by sound. The first step is shine our flashlights at the tree to check where the durians are hanging in numbers, this will give us an idea where to look as they roll hidden in the bushes. Still, they are easy to miss, you need a keen nose to catch a slightest whiff, so we would not consume any durians until the hunt is over in order to preserve maximum sense of smell.

    Durian night hunt

    Picture of durian tree. Click to zoom in.
    Tree full of durians

    Suddenly a durian dove straight towards us. There is no time to react, it shatters right between us with a loud thump. The durian exploded inches from my feet, bounced and spikes into my friend’s calf, drawing blood. We have been lucky, it could have smash our faces as we looked up. The durian was already rotting. Durians get watery and some rot on the branches from too much rains.

    The durian that nearly hit us.
    durian

    The rains also brought in mosquitoes in huge numbers, we covered ourselves with expensive spray repellents and planted no less than 10 mosquito coils around our camp area, having run out of egg cartons to burn.

    Although the harvest is plentiful, we were contented with 7 durians. Other diligent groups got more. There are small shelters built under the trees, keeping the occupants dry and safe from falling durians. Others use electric bikes, criss-crossing the island revisiting each durian grove.
    Updated: 10 July 2010

    ————————
    Took leave. Camped overnight for the past 2 weekends. We heard that Ubin durians are beginning to fall and were excited. Unfortunately we were too early. There were unriped durians on the grounds with teeth marks. Like us humans, monkeys are also excited and plucked the durians too early before they ripen. We sheepishly accepted durians from Mr. Lim, a Ubin villager staying at Marman “Orchid farm”.

    We were again unsuccessful on the second week. There were durians pickers camped under the trees. One sat motionless for hours, coming into life on sounds of durians dropping. They would race towards the spot where they heard the durians drop. These people must have heard tales of thousands of dollars earned picking free durians. There is a family of 10 brothers earning $10,000 picking free durians or $1,000 for each brother. Small sums for many but there are lots of poor folks in Singapore.

    We only managed to get one before they came running over. During to the rainy season and the cooler weather this year, the durians were watery and bland, quickly fermenting within space of several hours, unlike the previous seasons where they tasted a lot better.

    It looks like we have to go to remote parts of Ubin for our durian hunt.
    Updated: July 01, 2010.
    ————————

    Durian seasons come to Ubin twice a year. The major one lasts a few weeks and no one knows the exact dates. The first sign is the abundance of durian flowers, indicating the season is about to due in a few months.
    Some durians will fall earlier but these are usually premature durians. Fully ripened durians will fall a few weeks later and lasting for about 6 weeks. Other tropical fruits also ripen at the same time including rambutans, mangosteens, dukus and langsat.

    Ubin durians are a treat. In the midst of the hot season, the durians are expected to be more fragrant too They are your organic varieties having been left abandoned by islanders who resettled a long time ago. Being older varieties without the benefits of modern cultivating techniques, Ubin durians are tough to open with flavors that vary from tree to tree. Use gloves and a “durian knife” to pry open.

    During durian season, entire families would converge heedless of snakes that may hide in the bushes. Ubin villagers usually wear “phua chu kang” boots to protect themselves while gathering durians. Some even use umbrellas to protect themselves from falling durians.

    Q. Why durians drop at night
    Durians drop during the day too, although more at night. From the same tree, its durians will drop over several weeks, but sometimes they hang tantalizingly for weeks and are suddenly gone in a week or so. Once ripen, the frequency seems to in favor when temperatures dip or rise quickly when night come or when dawn breaks. Strong gusts of wind will also bring about unexpected bonus. Which is why picking durians is a waiting but rewarding game.

    As durians usually drop at night, there are brave ones who stake out at cemeteries waiting for the loud thuds of durians falling. You need a trained eye plus a strong flashlight to find them as they roll into shrubs and bushes.

    Update: 19 June 2010.
    Durians are beginning to fall and we were excited for a night of adventure and durian hunting. Have bought a couple of new flashlights to try out including my favorite lights. They include:

    Zebralights H60 Headlamp 18650 Flood.
    HDS CR123a Ra Clicky ExecutiveTM Flashlight (General purpose)
    Quark CR123x² Turbo (For throw)

    I am bringing LED lights for its weight, excellent run-times, super brightness, and good color rendition. Qualities that are essential for durian searching.


    If you intend to find some. Just follow your nose and look for them on the forest floor. Sometimes you hear a lucky thump of durians which has just fallen. Make sure you rent a bicycle with basket, like this lucky couple did. You also need repellents to deter mosquitoes from feasting on you.

    Durians on bicycle basket

    Don’t congratulate yourselves too soon if you find durians on the floor. They are probably bad if they are discolored and smell a bit off, Those with bites marks are from frustrated monkeys who cannot get through the though shell.

    Unseen, the wild boars are waiting too. During the night, they would push the durians against the forest floor with their tough snouts until the durians split open like flower petals. By morning only empty husks remained. Many ‘ghosts encounters’ were results of mistaking these pigs or islanders trying to scare people away from collecting durians.

    Although durian gathering can be fun, there are ‘geylang types’ from mainland Singapore who act as if the trees are theirs. They would intimidate others including Ubin villagers who come near, loudly proclaiming their ‘ownership’. Its not true of course.
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    Wild Pigs – 1. January, 2011

    Their scientific name is Sus scrofa

    This is Jack, probably the most photographed pig in Pulau Ubin.

    Jack the wild pig

    With a population of 500 boars, they managed very well to hide themselves.

    Instead you will see a lot of freshly churned top soil as they dig with their snouts for earthworms. Their favorite snacks include rubber seeds and durians.

    Consider yourself lucky when you encounter them. The older big ones may do a mock charge. Just shout to frighten it away.

    Smaller younger ones may even feed close to you and are not wary of humans.

    pigs feeding with cat

    Even up close they are so pre-occupied with eating that we were able to take pictures up close.

    Up close

    Avoid baby pigs with little stripes. Mum is around and she can be very protective.

    Striped piglet. Photo taken at Chek Jawa.
    Baby pigs with stripes

    Sometimes you may come across their nest. Be cautious, the nest are used by other boars to hide in also.

    Pigs nest

    Coconuts torn open by boars. Their snouts are that strong.
    Torn coconuts

    Coconuts are also used as bait to set traps. Report to Nparks should you encounter such traps. Some poachers even use leg clamp traps that are danger to unsuspecting humans and pets.

    Wild pig traps

    Update: Jan 2011

    Wilds pigs also feed on shorelines and mangrove swamps for their favorite shellfish. Herds would sometimes swim across the Straits of Johore looking for new source of food. To them, and to tigers when Singapore is just a fishing village, the Johore Straits is just another large river similar to those in Malaysia. Which is one one hear news of occasional wild pigs that lost their way into mainland Singapore. Its too bad they are seen as free pork like free fruits during Ubin’s durian season. People here would launch themselves in avid discussions how how they should be cooked instead of viewing them as living links to mother earth.

    Lokan clams with ample meat are among their favorites. Speaking of lokan clams, an old Malay lady was gathering them when she came face to face with a boar which she mistook for a tiger, causing a tiger scare where signs were put out warning everyone by authorities. There are still false alarms since. Anyone with photo of the warning signs to share?
    lokan clams

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    Internet searches – 1. January, 2011

    This site uses Google Analytics to monitor search terms. Here are some of the search terms used which will be developed into full posts later. Meanwhile, I am updating them here in a Q & A format.

    Q. Busiest period in Pulau Ubin.

    Weekends and Public holidays are usually crowded with visitors. It get worse during long weekends holidays and there would be long queues at both Changi point ferry terminal and Pulau Ubin jetty and long wait ordering food. Most bikes are rented out too. On the other hand, its quiet during weekdays and passengers have to wait much longer for boats to fill up. But Ubin is more tranquil and shy animals more likely to be seen. Normal weekends would be the best with frequent boat departures from Ubin until 7.30pm when visitors dwindles down.

    Q. Best times to visit Pulau Ubin.

    Do check links on this site for the current temperature range. Anything above 31°C would be stifling hot. The other is to check the peak tides which coincide with refreshing breezes.

    December to March is cooler which coincide with North East Monsoon, along with arrivals of migratory birds. Haze from Indonesia may occur during prolong periods of dry weather from June to September, affecting sensitive lungs and reduced visibility for photography. On the other hand, its durian season plus opportunities to photograph island festivals.

    Q. Internet access in Pulau Ubin

    There are no internet cafes on Pulau Ubin so you’ll need to use 3g wireless access. Make sure your signals are not picked up by Malaysian telcos to avoid ‘bill shock’.

    Update: Jan 2012, Starhub has apparently cleaned up their act, their signals stayed locked throughout the whole day while we were trekking. My friend is able to browse and surf faster than in mainland Singapore.

    Q. Dengue fever and Malaria outbreaks in Pulau Ubin?

    There are no outbreaks in recent knowledge. Visitors get bitten by mosquitoes and inevitably worry about risks of getting dengue or malaria so bring along a mosquito spray. Those containing DEET are most effective. You can also click on www.dengue.gov.sg for current information.

    Q. Nparks Toilets

    This is an important question. Especially for those who prefer to hold their bladders than to do it in the bushes. The toilets are located far apart at beaches like Noordin Beach, Marman Beach, Jelutong Beach, the visitor centre at Ubin village and at Chek Jawa. Make sure you bring your own toilet rolls as selfish visitors are known to have taken entire rolls for their own use.

    toilet rolls from Nparks

    See the solar panel on top of the toilets roof? The flushes are sun-powered. But not when it rains with dark clouds for days. Then they stop working and the disgusting stuff stacked almost to the brim.

    Q. Are you allowed to bring alcohol to Pulau Ubin?

    I supposed its easy to form that impression, going through the X-ray security checking and seeing fences with razor concertina barriers. Although rare now, the Police Coast Guards even conduct passport checks on innocent looking tourists. Beers and cigarettes are sold in Pulau Ubin village provision shops. Duty paid alcohol and smokes are allowed in just like in the mainland.

    Q. Bringing dogs to Ubin

    Pets on ferry

    A. You may bring your pets to Pulau Ubin with you. Only a small minority of city dwellers are terrified of animals, so you may have to charter the boat if they object. In such situation, organize among yourselves and top up the fares ($30 total) if there are not enough passengers. Also note that there are no clear rules if they are transported in pet crates while some boatmen are forever looking for ways to make a quick buck. Hopefully relevant parties take this up with MPA or report them with their boat numbers if you think you have been taken advantaged of. At the island, make sure you leash your pet for its own safety. Make sure heartworms shots are up to date due to prevalence of mosquitoes.


    Pets on ferry

    Q. Are there restaurants serving wild boar meat in Ubin.

    We were camping in Ubin when an old man approached us asking where the barbershop at. A strange question indeed and when we asked around, there was a barbershop, a school and a government medical dispensary but its all gone now. Like Rip Van Winkle, your knowledge also out of date. In modern Singapore, eateries are only allowed to order game meat from approved sources for heath and disease control. Selling of bushmeat is otherwise illegal. Our ever creative chefs in mainland Singapore will however use fresh market pork, overcook it with heavy curry powders and gave it fancy names like wild boar, venison, even dog meat.

    Q. PRC woman fell and died while cycling in ubin. (Cycling accident on 25 march 2011)

    fatal bicycle accident

    Bicycle crashes are common in Pulau Ubin, and once in a while someone get killed. Its big news on domestic media which overseas visitors are not aware. They see everyone renting bikes and assume its safe. As human beings we have natural fear of heights and water but no such fear when it come to coasting downhill until its too late. I think its time we should put up a large skull and crossbones warning signs instead of multiple ones which everyone seem to ignore.

    multiple warning signs

    Related post on bike crashes

    Q. Ubin drownings.

    See separate post

    Q. Where can we swim.
    A. Not at the beaches. Water is polluted. The quarry lakes is the best but closed for public safety. My NZ friend told me its warm and almost better than the lakes in his Christchurch hometown.

    Swimming in quarries is not allowed

    Q. Beach safety during high tide

    Ubin beaches are not affected by strong sea currents unlike Sentosa where drownings had occurred. . At low tide, you can walk quite a distance away from shore with special guided tours at Chek Jawa organized by Nparks. But not all parts are navigable. Danger lurks at river mouths or streams flowing out to sea. The mud there are soft and its a struggle to free your legs from the sucking muck up to waist. You can struggle until high tide comes in. Best is to head back. There was an accident where a woman and her child drowned while clam digging at Kranji. Visibility was then poor due to rain. The unfortunate woman mistook the lights in Johore as landfall and walked further to sea while the tide came in.

    Q. Rock temple of Ubin.

    There is one mentioned in Joseph Lai Earth blog. Its located in Outbound Bound School and is not accessible to the public. You can find it in Dr. Chua Ee Kiam book – Pulau Ubin : Ours to Treasure. Would appreciate very much also if any readers, especially those from OBS, can share his/her latest pictures of Ubin’s rock temple.

    Q. Chinese cemetries in Pulau Ubin.

    There are 2 Chinese cemeteries in Ubin. They are named ‘Kg. Bukit Coffee’ and ‘Kg. Sungei Tiga’ respectively by Nparks. The first is located near Jalan Wat Siam.

    The older one is located at Jalan Batu Ubin. According older folks who lived there since young, the cemetery is more than a century old. Its caretaker said its much older at more than 150 years. Being small, the plots were a mixture of designs of different eras and generations apart. The cemeteries were closed in the 1990s.

    Grave plot meant for a two. Unfortunately, the surviving spouse would be interred in the mainland as the cemetery has been decommissioned.
    chinese graveplot

    Q. How to avoid ghosts on Pulau Ubin.

    A. Fear of ghosts is perfectly natural among young people and its part of growing up. To avoid, stop your imagination from running wild by avoiding Asian ghosts movies and telling each other ghosts stories.

    Q. Ubin Japanese ghost stories.

    A. The Japanese invading army landed first landed in Ubin in WWII when the 5th Imperial Guards made a feint attack. The main attack from the western side would come a day later. Ubin however did not suffer from atrocities committed by sadistic occupation forces. There was no recollection of massacre sites in Ubin by the 101 year old headman of Pulau Ubin, Mr Lim Chye Joo, who have since passed away in 2006.

    The villagers felt the island was protected by its resident Tua Pek Kong diety.

    So feel relaxed and play songs of your favorite Japanese band.

    Q. Na Tuk Kong (拿督公) Added Jan 2011.

    Na Tuk Kong are said to be supernatural beings resident to a particular area. Shrines are built at places where people have encounters. Their presence are also felt by strong kemayan incense. The shrine structure, which is usually painted yellow, might appear empty except for a piece of granite rock compared to the small Na Tuk Kong statuette at the German Girl Shrine. Prayers are offered for lottery strike and good fortune. Two of such shrines can be found in Ubin, one near Murai Hut along Marman river and the other on the remote north east of the island.

    Na Tuk Kong Shrine
    Na Tuk Kong Shrine

    Shrine interior
    Shrine interior

    Q. Running in Pulau Ubin
    There are two guys I know who run there every weekend. Using Nparks shelters as landmarks, their favorite circuits are
    1) Murai, Kelicap, Pekakak, Punai, Beberek, Murai. The distance is about 3.8km with 2 steep and 2 gradual inclines, running with traffic.
    2) Murai, Marman beach, Orchid farm, Rubber plantation dirt track, Murai. The distance is 2.1 km with 1 gradual incline, running facing traffic for the first part.
    Small hazards include startled animals (they either fight or flee) so avoid running in total silence like a ninja.

    Q. What is the history of Jalan Noordin

    This is a very much a draft as I am still collecting materials for this entry and verifying the information.

    Jalan Noordin derives its name from Kg. Noordin whose inhabitants have since moved out. Among its inhabitants were Orang Lauts who are nomadic fisher-folks, with their kampungs built on stilts at edges of river mouths.

    Most features of Kg. Noordin has been obliterated. A contractor illegally flattened the area for soil reclamation was forced by the Government to refill it back to its original height. (Fortunately he has the financial means to do so but land on other parts of Pulau Ubin has been illegally cleared by others who are now on the run so to speak.) Kampong Noordin is appropriated and NPCC (National Police Cadet Corp) built which is off limits. There is a heritage tree, a Johore Fig (Ficus kerkhovenii) within its ground.

    Noordin beach is a favorite swimming spot among British colonial forces and their families with its beautiful granite boulders. Too bad the boulders are now gone. There is a Nparks rulebook somewhere which state that Noordin Beach is the only beach allowed for swimming in Pulau Ubin. Unfortunately, the fence built by Home Affairs to keep out smugglers and illegal immigrants also keep floatsam and rubbish in so the beach is no longer pristine or attractive.

    Noordin beach is probably the most known spooky place, with ghost stories that are passed on orally from one generation of kids to another. The Nparks toilet at the knoll was once a seafood restaurant. A Chinese burning tower is next to it, its dome glowing eerily on a moon lighted night. There is the so-called blue house where a ghostly apparition was seen which is just a house with its doors painted blue, the lady of the house has a habit of brushing her hair by the window.

    Noordin beach is accessible via Jalan Noordin which cuts through a vast interior wetlands. Crocodiles once lurked there, Ubin village centenarian headman, who have since died passed away, recalled a person who was attacked and killed by a croc when Singapore was then Japanese occupied Syonan-to. The bridge where the accident happen would be flooded when tides reach 3.3 metres in height but is safe to cross however.

    The swamp is home to rarely seen otters and its location known to Nature society people. Its proximity to the beach makes the whole area buzzing with biting insects so repellents are necessary to endure them.

    Q. Tigers in Pulau Ubin

    What are seen now are tiger beers sold at Pulau Ubin provision shops while the Chinese temple nearby has a tiger god shrine. Other than that, there would be occasional tiger scares due to by mistaken identity. In the book, Indiscreet Memories: 1901 Singapore Through the Eyes of a Colonial Englishman, tigers were observed to “swim over from Johore to Ubin, take a breather there, and complete the journey to the [mainland] island, landing at [Changi] Fairy Point, and giving birth to their young in that neighbourhood”

    Q. Salt from fresh water brought by wind in ubin quarry?

    The disused quarries nearer to the sea coast tastes saltier due to saltwater intrusion. This is also the reason why quarrying have to be stopped as PWD (Public Works Department) set depth limits for safety reasons. Already the earth along Jelutong Road section bordering Pekan Quarry have shifted prompting Nparks to close it. For this reason, it is unlikely the quarries will ever be re-opened for granite extraction. Singapore is now importing granite from places as far away as China.

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    Pulau Ubin for handicapped visitors – 1. December, 2010

    Volunteers with blind visitors

    Its heartwarming to see young volunteers with blind visitors. KP Tan, who is a pioneer Pulau Ubin regular, remembers the first time when students from Singapore American School took the initiative by organizing the first field trip for the blind. Such trips have been popular since.

    Organizing such trips can be a challenge however. Dates should be planned during months where fair weather is expected as the sea can be choppy especially during monsoon season. The visit should also coincide with high tides to make it easier to get on or off the bumboats. Height difference between high and low tides in Singapore can be as much as 3 meters so avoid low tides. Unlike Changi Point Ferry Terminal jetty with its free floating pontoon, Ubin jetty is the traditional concrete steps type with the bottommost steps slippery and barnacled from being half submerged. Exercise extreme caution as it is easy to trip over mooring ropes. As bumboats come in different shapes and sizes, choose single level decks bumboats with broad stern platform and high freeboard like this bumboat shown below.

    Broad single deck bumboat

    High tide makes embarking easier
    High tide

    For visitors on wheelchairs, assistance of at least 4 persons is needed. Even then the jetty construction at Ubin side makes it near impossible for safe transfers. The best option is to charter the boat and use the the pontoon jetty at Celestial resort which is about 2 km further away, the same route taken by visiting VIPs to Ubin island.

    Celestial Resort can be contacted at +65 6542 6681 or reservations@celestialresort.com to assist in bookings for boats and vans.

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    Picture Thread – 15. October, 2010

    Dec/Jan 2011

    Sailboat

    A windy wonderful day

    Lily pond frolic
    lily pond frolic

    Police post by the sea
    Police post by the sea

    Previous picture thread

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    Living water – 6. October, 2010

    As a child I am fascinated by wells. Before piped water is available to households in Singpore, villagers have to depend on wells for clean water. A hole is dug deep into the ground until water is found. A low wall is built surrounding the hole, tall enough to prevent curious children from falling in. A bucket with a rope is then used to draw water. I would peer over the edge, watching the floating pail and trying to flip it over to draw water, shuddering at thoughts of accidentally falling in.

    looking into a deep well

    Even today, with no water piped to Ubin island, well water supply most of Ubin water needs for villagers and for visitors using Npark toilets.

    The water at Npark toilets are not potable due to possible contamination. But elsewhere on the island, the wells are pure as natural springs, fed through rainfall on the surrounding woodlands, making then a refreshing sight for trekkers. The water is so abundant that they exerted enough pressure to resist saltwater intrusion. As a result, some wells were built close to sea shores like this still functioning well located near the the only mosque in Pulau Ubin (already sadly demolished).

    Well by the sea

    Traditional malay kampung square shaped well used for ritual ablution.
    Traditional malay kampung square shaped well

    Typical of our civil service mentality. Right after the post, they began to worry about people falling into wells. All the wells are sealed up with metal frames. Wells with narrow openings off the trails with historical interest were reinforced with modern cement done hurriedly by the cheapest contractor. The picture above is now an archival record of how the original well looks like.

    Sometimes water are found just inches below the surface.
    Shallow well

    Well built inside a villager’s home.
    Home well

    The only time the wells started to dry up was in 1997 and 1981 where fresh water are brought from the mainland. There were some lasting effect, some durian trees closer to sea died or are no longer able to fruit anymore due to saltwater intrusion.

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    RIP. Jack the wild boar – 13. September, 2010

    Jack, the most famous wild boar in Pulau Ubin has died on 11 of September after falling ill, probably due to old age. His departure will be missed as he is a favorite among many visitors to the island.

    Jack the wild boar

    I am going to miss him too. Besides offering him treats from the jungle like rubber seeds and rambutans, I discovered lately that he loves his back scratched. He would be startled when his back is touched, but would soon stand still quietly enjoying the experience and began to grunt loudly with pleasure begging for more.

    Before its illness, Jack had a visit from a buddhist group. The monk teaching the group said Jack was an re-incarnation and prayed for its next journey that is expected soon. It sounds presience, but Jack was quite healthy then and I was looking forward to scratch his belly using a spaghetti ladle for reach. I was very skeptical of the monks remarks then.

    Dharma teaching and Jack’s future by Thai Monk
    Dharma teacher

    Prayers for Jack
    Prayers over Jack the wild boar

    Wild pigs are highly intelligent, although wary of humans who also hunt for them, they can be very friendly. This pig would recognize van drivers who are friendly to it and would quickly come when it hear their vehicle approaching. So next time, spend some time at Punai Hut and offer it some rubber seeds for a memorable encounter.

    Curious boar at Chek Jawa
    Curious boar at Chek Jawa

    wild sow

    Pigs play an important role in human society. In parts of India, and Egypt Cairo garbage pigs help to clear away organic waste from human settlements. Pork economics was cited by Goh Keng Swee on Singapore hotel industry. He even earned the moniker “pig minister” when he eliminated pork farming in Singapore in 1990.

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    Rambutans – 7. September, 2010

    Rambutan season in Pulau Ubin come closely just behind durian season in Ubin. So besides free durian, you can also find free rambutans too. Rambutan trees usually grow tall in its branches and are favorite fruits of Ubin monkeys which are called macaques. Flying foxes love them but they are nearly extinct, mass poisoned by Malaysian farmers protecting their cash crops. We only managed to spot one flying fox this year. Malaysia is becoming an unattractive place for eco-tourism when entire forests are cleared for palm oil plantations.

    Uneaten, rambutans quickly rot and they are safely harvested using ladders. Its barks are slippery and the branches weak so do not climb. There was a sad accident where one person became a quadriplegic after a fall.

    rambutan harvest

    Not all rambutans are free as some are in private properties belonging to Ubin remaining householders. The coast guard will act if there are complaints. Together with Nparks, they are also on the look out for people who even chop a tree down for its fruits. Please help by reporting such activities. Meanwhile, warning signs should be posted for vulnerable groves..

    Like most fruit trees, rambutan trees need lots of sunlight to flourish. Unattended, they are at risk being smothered by jungle creepers, depriving animal foragers of food. Nparks should take note and give nature a little assistance (Update: Mar 2011. Perhaps they are already doing it by encouraging volunteers to help out)

    Other than plucking them, you may find them near Ubin jetty where they are put up for sale when they are in season.

    Harvested rambutans have a short shelf life of 3 days. The fruit should be firm as squishy ones are usually over-ripe and may have turn bad. As for eating them, a wikiHow article suggested using a knife or to squeeze the rambutan till the skin breaks, then peel half the skin off. I find it easier and less messy to simply bite and spit off the skin before devouring the flesh.

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    Ghost Month – 1. September, 2010

    August happens to be 7th month in Chinese Lunar Calendar. It is believed that hell gates opened up and hungry ghosts are everywhere. Visitor levels to Pulau Ubin would drop during this period as people prefer safety by staying indoors. For us, August is as good time as any to tour Ubin by night.

    Ubin’s hell guards (黑白无常). Their job is to catch ghosts and send them back to hell. Link warning. Scary pictures.

    Hell Guards

    We hoped to make a spirit themed walk to Bukit Puaka area, a place considered by Ubin islanders as being haunted. Residents tell stories of being lost even in broad daylight in places they were familiar since childhood.

    Despite being skeptics, we are hoping to be caught up in the same paranormal phenomenon. But this time with high tech tools to help us. My GPS is logging the location of every step we made. Its recording will show if we have been walking in circles or taken to Mars by alien probes.

    We are also armed with the latest flashlights. This time with RA clicky high CRI LED lights fitted with longer lasting 17670 batteries. The lights also enable us to take better colored photographs. I also brought a Thrunite 300 lumen P60 style XP-G R5 3 mode drop-in. This drop in allows me to use Surefire 6P heads with forward clicky, fitted on Solarforce 18650 tube. They would be our high tech amulets against ghosts.

    The walk was leisurely while taking nature photographs along the way.

    Located 100 meters away from Malay Kampong, this bamboo clump was inhabited with interesting creatures including including a scorpion, slugs and insects that crowd and move together.

    scorpion

    slug

    crowding insects

    Spooky stories about banana trees have been passed from kids to another for generations. When I was little, I was told that the the banana flower is where the banana ghost hides during the day. If you tie it with string the ghost will grant you any wishes to free herself.

    Banana flower

    The village provision shop was still open late into the night. We soon found ourselves engaging in swapping ghosts stories. The one told about Noordin famous white ghost with a baby on her arms is most frightening. Another is sightings of a blue colored giant mountain spirit walking the hills of Bukit Puaka. And that was way before the movie Avatar came out.

    ben-stiller-navi-oscar-2010

    Time passed, we decided to postpone our ghost trail after allowing ourselves to be spooked, discretion being the better part of valor.

    We went to Ubin jetty. Fish were biting and this angler landed a snapper.

    snapper

    On the way back we heard mewling high up the trees. It turns out to be a rarely seen spotted wood-owl. It’s a juvenile bird calling for its parent. Adult wood owls emits a loud and eerie frightening sound which is commonly heard at Malay kampong area.

    spotty wood owl

    Pictures above are all taken illuminated with RA high CRI clicky flashlights by photographer Andy Ho using a high iso Nikon D3s camera.

    Have you personally seen or felt the presence of a ghost before?

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    Travel distance within Pulau Ubin – 14. August, 2010

    The distance by road from Ubin Jetty to Chek Jawa takes about 3.6 km. The ferry trip from Changi to Pulau Ubin takes about 15 to 20 minutes covering a distaznce of about 2.4km.

    Here is a travel distance table to other parts of Ubin for your convenience.

    Ubin distance table

    Update: 21 Mar 2011

    Direction signposts with distance are now erected at major junctions which makes easier to get around Pulau Ubin. You may print out a detailed map of Pulau Ubin as free maps are no longer given out.

    direction signposts

    Sunset at equatorial Singapore is around 7pm so give yourself plenty of daylight time to walk back to Ubin jetty before it gets too dark or to catch the last ferry. Bring a flashlight just in case and jot down emergency numbers from here. Go back the same way from the path you took. Ignore Nparks traffic directions as they are meant for vehicles plus you have to walk up and down 3 slopes.

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    Otters – 3. August, 2010

    Otters are shy animals who quickly hide when they are approached. They are very rarely seen even for regular Ubin visitors. Count yourselves lucky if you see them and avoid making your presence known. My friend Andy have been to Ubin for many years and finally got his luck. They were spotted 350 metres east of Ubin jetty (lon/lat 1.403579, 103.973310).

    Ubin otters

    Ubin otters

    In the sixties, British forces personnel adopted a colony of otters living on a small islet off Changi. A servant working at China Sea Beach Club (rebuilt into SAF Ferry terminal) would row over and feed them fishes bought from the wet market. The islet is long gone, the area reclaimed when Changi airport was built. The otter colony was abruptly dispersed and dead ones were caught on fishermen nets.

    Otters are slowly making its comeback. They have been spotted at Sungei Tampines, Paris Ris Park (lon/lat 1.379849, 103.953285),

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    Clouded Monitor Lizard – 5. July, 2010

    clouded monitor lizard

    12 seconds video

    These lizards used to be commonly seen in Ubin. When startled, they climb up to the nearest tree. Their natural predators are dogs so make sure your pets are leashed.

    These lizards are not prolific breeders, their numbers declining, being easily trapped by poachers, who include “snake head biters” commandos who like to show their prowess biting off heads of live snakes.

    If you are a student and being entertained by one, remember that wild animals are protected in Ubin. Tell your instructor that you have already seen how its done and set the creature free instead of eating it. There is cautionary story of a SAF army commando who is a Ubin regular. Happens about 14 years ago. He subsequently died of blood poisoning after drinking wild reptiles blood. Monitor lizards are scavengers and carrion eaters. They swim about eating dead carcasses and are known to burrow into freshly dug graves and eating the dead bodies, which are traditionally wrapped in shrouds only and buried in shallow depths. Malaysians regard them as filthy animals. Its a bad idea to catch wild ones for pets and endanger your family members.

    bear grylls eating live snake.jpg

    Jungle survival course training in Pulau Ubin.
    Jungle survival training are usually conducted by armed forces for individuals who are selected for their top physical condition and mental endurance, in order to conduct dangerous missions, learning to escape and avoid capture. They are not being taught to ordinary soldiers for a number of reasons.

    For rainforest people who spend their entire lives in the jungle, finding enough food is a big challenge. The scarcity of animals on the forest floor resulted in very little meat in their diet. Yet many of such survival courses including TV reality like Man vs. Wild teaches the fun part of trapping of small animals for food. To survive in jungles is a perilous undertaking as no jungles around the world are the same. There are poisonous plants, snakes, scorpions, centipedes, mosquitoes that brings malaria and dengue, parasitic worms, bacteria causing dysentery or leptospirosis from rat urine which causes organ failures. It takes an entire lifetime for forest people to survive in their environment. Such 3 days courses create false sense of confidence that leads to tragedies and deaths.

    Parents should consider carefully before allowing their children to go for exotic courses for the sake of gaining precious extracurricular and leadership points in the hope of gaining admissions to prestigious institutions, undergoing 3 days of gruel-ling programs which young bodies and minds are not conditioned for as in this tragic story which 2 schoolgirls drowned in Pulau Ubin more than 10 years ago.

    Singapore CDC, Nparks, school principals please take note. Here is an actual experience related by a trainee while in Ubin.

    Anyway monitor lizar do taste good. confrim nicer than chicken esp those farm bred ones we eat nowadays. Choose the ~0.5m long ones. Smack bugger on the head until tongue drop out sideways… hang on fence or pole, slit the skin from throat down to tail with a razor…and just peel it off like piece of clothing until the claw area and chop if off. All their fats are concentrated in one area at the belly (yellow lump). Just pull it off and the rest are all lean meat. Serious! If you are in the jungle and there is no cooking oil, just melt this fat back and stir fry the chopped up lean meat from the rest of the body. Throw away the head and neck. Jungle cooking, make do with what u can find lor..pandan leaves, chilli or even small fruits. Above was really what me and some buddies did during jungle survival @ Ubin many moons ago.

    Source

    Update: 7 Sept 2010.
    Since the post was put up this site got hits from people searching for information on buying clouded monitor lizards as pets or as parts (gallbladder). It is illegal in Singapore to buy or trade in exotic snakes and reptiles. All AVA need is to catch the traders who will turn in their customers for lighter sentencing.

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    Batteries – 2. July, 2010

    Batteries lose their power within 1 to 2 hrs so make sure you bring along spares if you are spending the night trekking or hunting durians in Ubin. Disposable batteries are expensive and rechargeables are the way to go.

    NIMH Rechargeables

    For rechargeable AA/AAA cells, my favorite is Sanyo Eneloop brand. These batteries do not drain down while unused compared other common NIMH rechargeable batteries. Mustafa Centre prices are very competitive compared to most retail shops.

    New improved Sanyo eneloop batteries
    Although users may not notice the difference, the improved Sanyo eneloop promises better all round performance. Click on Sanyo product page to find out how to distinguish new ones from the old.

    You need a charger too. I prefer to use cheaper slow 8 hrs charger. They prolong battery life as they are cooler and safe even if you leave the batteries charged for weeks or even months.

    Not so with quick 1 hour chargers. The batteries get hot while it is being charged and get really hot when its near full. The charger’s circuitry detects this and switch to 200mA trickle charge. That depends on QC which is questionable for most cheap China made knock-offs. Have a bucket of sand ready if it catches fire.

    Lithium Batteries
    The next step up are disposable CR123A Lithium batteries which Surefire flashlights use. These batteries carry up to 3 volts with its multiplier effect of 6 or 9 volts in series. They can last unused for up to 10 years and do not leak battery acids compared to alkalines, the common cause for flashlight failures. They are expensive but you can buy them in bulk at Sheares Technologies. Some camera shops will sell you in box of 10 for $2.80 each. Try Max Photo at Pagoda Street. Its not advisable to mail order them as it may be held at customs due to higher risks of fires if packed poorly. CR123A batteries cannot be recharged.

    Rechargeable li-ion
    Many new flashlights allow the option of using rechargeable li-ion batteries. Unlike ordinary NIMH rechargeable batteries, they self drain slowly when stored unused. These batteries run at higher voltage at 3.7volts with higher current draw. The benefits are higher power in a smaller package or both power and longer runtime with larger batteries. Read your flashlight manual to see if such batteries can be used as the wrong match will result in burn out bulb or reduced LED life. The positive end (+) of the battery has to be inserted correctly also.

    They are less safe if used in series and knowledgeable handling is needed to prevent small explosions or fires. Please visit candlepowerforums and take your time to read its faq.

    You will need to know important details like different cells sizes, their capacity differences, protected or unprotected, current drain.

    Cells size are given in 5 digit number schemes. The first 2 number prefix indicate battery width and last 3 number suffix indicates battery length. A 18650 battery is therefore 18mm wide and 650mm long, about twice the length of R123 or 16340 cell.

    Larger capacity means longer runtimes. But cell capacity are mostly over optimistic so don’t fall for manufacturer claims.

    Protected cells have built-in circuits to prevent dangerous over discharge or excessive current drain. The term tend to be loosely used so buy from reputable manufacturers (hard to do since most batteries are made in China). Look for cells with vent holes which help release pressure if the temperature rises and gas expands.

    Discard any cells that shows signs of leaking or cracks if dropped as they can be fire hazards. Promptly recharge any drained cells to at least 3.7volts to avoid permanent damage. Keeping the battery unused for prolong period at full charge of above 4.1 volts reduces its normal life span.

    Finally, the cell positive end may be button or flat top, an important distinction as some flashlights contacts only work with button top cells,

    You may order online through a HK online dealer or through dealextreme. Again, read reader reviews and users recommendations before you purchase such batteries and chargers dedicated for them.

    Li-ion batteries by AW are very popular among flashlights enthusiasts. They can also be ordered from Lumen factory with fast shipping from Hong Kong. Order the black colored ones. The orange ones needs carefully handling due to its high current draw.

    Other than online orders placed with Hong Kong or China which ship via Hongkong Post, never ever place your battery orders with shipping via Singapore vPOST. vPOST is a useful service for magazine subscriptions, ebay shipments containing garments or ladies handbags from USA for retailers including Amazon who do not offer international shipping. The US Federal Aviation Administration issues guidelines that batteries must be properly packed for transportation. vPost go to the extreme by refusing acceptance of anything containing batteries including those of safe chemistry including alkalines and NIMH. They even go to the extent of refusing to accept if they believe there are batteries when there aren’t any.  Your orders will be stuck in some US post office for rejected delivery waiting to be claimed. So spare yourselves the hassle and do not tell your ebay seller to ship to your Vpost USA address, be it flashlights, laptops or mobile as nearly every electronic equipment that are now battery powered.

    Chargers
    The nimh chargers I am using now include Lacrosse BC-900 which seems to be reliable so far. My experience with Maha chargers is mixed (read cheap parts).

    As for li-ion cells, I like to know what is happening so I bought an expensive Triton hobby charger. You can find many expensive sets at RC (radio control toys) shops concentrated at Fook Hai Building. I am now testing the icharger 106B+ which allows PC monitoring. This unit was ordered online from Hobbyking. Their service is fast with affordable express shipping.

    Update: 20 May 2010. The icharger 106B+ failed to work and I have to send it back.  It took more than a month and plenty of hassle to get a replacement. Online orders are full of such pitfalls. Other than that it is a well featured charger and am very pleased with it.

    There are plenty of China made chargers for li-ion cells which are cheap but reliability is a question mark. Runaway charging may even cause flaming and explosion. Make sure you buy a multi-meter, take out the cell from the charging cradle and measure its voltage. It should not be above 4.2 volts when charging is complete. A multi-meter is best for measuring remaining capacity of your li-on cells.

    Capacity guide
    4.2V = 100%
    4.1V = about 90%
    4.0V = about 80%
    3.9V = about 60%
    3.8V = about 40%
    3.7V = about 20% (for long term storage)
    3.6V = empty
    <3.5V = over-discharged

    DealExtreme multimeters are cheap and popular among on-line buyers sku #619 and sku 9636.

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    Insect stings – 27. June, 2010

    A Ubin villager disturbed a hornet nest and got his hand stung. The folk cure is to apply a mixture of vinegar and brown sugar.

    Hornet stung hand covered with black vinegar

    Although such incidence are rare (Nparks destroys them when they are found), a kit for insect stings would be useful. One villager recommended “Po Sum On” medicated oil. She was bitten by a centipede and the oil helped.

    Ubin regular KP Tan, who has been stung by both, consider centipede bites to be more painful than scorpion bites. It must be very painful indeed. In my case I thought I a small snake has sunk its teeth into my hand and refused to let go. I was at a temple retreat in Thailand then, I couldn’t scream as everyone is sleeping then and tried shaking my hand for the imaginary snake to let go of me until I saw it was a scorpion that bit me.

    Update: 22 Jun 2010. I find medicated oil like Tiger balm of little help in relieving itchy bites. But this oil seems to be most effective for me.

    Po Sum On Medicated Oil

    The small bottle of oil is protected by a metal container, preventing accidental uncapping and spills. They are available at Mustafa shopping centre. Get the smaller bottle as it is more convenient to apply without spilling.

    You can try natural remedies like aloe vera. Nparks grow them at the Secret Garden located behind Ubin Police Post. Just cut a small slice from the fleshy leaf and rub on the skin.

    aloe vera

    Caterpillars with urticating hairs. Updated: June 2010.
    The caterpillar’s hairs will break and embed into your skin as you brush against them or touch them. The effect on humans ranges from mild irritation to dermatitis. Nothing to be alarmed but do take precaution like wearing long sleeves shirt while bushwacking or use gloves while handling them.

    caterpillar with urticating hairs

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    German Girl Shrine – 23. June, 2010

    For visitors to Ubin, perhaps one of the ways to explore Chinese folk religion is to visit the German Girl Shrine (Schrein des deutschen Mädchen) located 4km by road east of Pulau Ubin near Ketam Quarry (Googlemaps link).

    Local folklore goes that the girl was the daughter of a coffee plantation manager who lived near the present temple site in the early 20th century.

    Being a foreign girl, the shrine was built with a barbie sized doll as the centerpiece with accompanying rosary, perfumed florida water, powder foundation, nail polish and lipstick.

    German girl shrine

    “Barbie doll shrine” as called by her fans in Brazil.
    Barbie doll shrine

    Perfumes and face powder offerings for the German goddess
    perfumes and face powder offerings

    Beside the main object of worship there are other dieties including Tau Pek Kong; Tu Di Gong; Na Tuk Kong. Datuks – or mispronounced as Na Tuks – are considered remnants of pre-Islamic Malay religion and pork or beer are not consumed so as not to offend them. Following her dietification, the deceased German girl is now worshiped as Na Tok Guniang 拿 督 姑 娘. Guniang being a term for maiden.

    A small shrine is built at the side to honor Orr Ki, literally black mole, who drowned nearby several years ago. Worshipers believed his death was pre-destined in order to be the German girl helper and guardian.
    Another recent addition is offerings of children clothing and shoes next to the shrine which is another form of spirit child worship, also practiced in Thailand (Guman Thong) and Malaysia (Toyol).

    Spirit child

    The mix of Christian cross, Na Tuks, Malaysian Chinese dieties at this shrine is a fascinating fusion in Chinese folk religion. Offensive it may be to purists, the Chinese never warred over religion and it is common to find households where parents practise folk religion while the rest of the family members are of different faiths including buddhists, catholics or protestants.


    Inventing a Goddess In a New Nation
    By Sor-Ching Low is an fascinating academic article of this “beautiful German girl”.

    Update: June 2010
    A new adjacent shrine was erected which we have not seen previously. This time for 2 hell guards brothers (黑白无常) whose job is to drag wandering spirits back to hell. Their addition is apt as Pulau Ubin has been a magnet for ghost hunters and ghost busters dressed in the same garb.

    hell guards (黑白无常)

    Click link below for a panorama view of the shrine.
    (Warning – large file download)
    (more…)

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    Trail Camera – 1. June, 2010

    Trail cameras are used by hunters. They are also also used by wildlife researchers. My friend lent it to me and I am hoping it can help capture pictures of rarely seen mouse-deer and leopard cat.

    Trail camera

    We took late boat to Ubin on Saturday (May 8, 2010). At 9pm there were people going fishing or camping on weekends. The van driver was contacted ahead to pick us on arrival.

    We headed to Chek Jawa to camp at Punai Hut. The spaced rows of rubber trees nearby would give the camera unobstructed view and allow us to learn its functions. This time, I am hoping to get pictures of wild boars and if lucky, get pictures of mixed domesticated/wild breeds. These have short legs and look closer to pot bellied pigs. If we are extremely lucky, we may capture pictures of an albino or white haired boar which some villagers claimed to have seen.

    Unfortunately, it rained heavily earlier and air is dense with humidity which carried noisy sounds from jets taking off from Changi Airport three km away. Most animals including boars tend to be less active on wet weather.

    Trail camera picture

    We only managed to catch pictures of ourselves with the trail cam. It was just as well as the camera was angled too high.

    Initial impressions. Despite being an expensive Reconyx trail camera, its main failings is narrow point of view, cumbersome size and lack of picture preview. Such cameras are not ready for prime time and expensive at more US$600 considering the lack of local sales support.

    Our night is not wasted however. We met young campers trail walking with laser pointers looking for glow-in-the-dark mushrooms and fireflies. There is always something interesting to do in Ubin.

    Soon it was dawn and the jungle is alive with bird calls especially of Ubin jungle fowl with its distinctive choked crowings. Chek Jawa is open from 8.30am to 6pm but you can talk to the caretaker for permission to visit earlier. Took pictures of the famous English bungalow House No. 1 which is restored and converted into a visitor centre. Chek Jawa is worth a visit for its coastal view and organized walk on its mudflats. Entrance is free for now.

    Ubin house no 1

    The first visitors started arriving from 9am. This time there were about 50 retired ladies on a field trip organized by Sembawang Community Club. One lady was a nurse midwife who was stationed for a 2 years in Ubin in the early 60s. There is a dispensary at Ubin village now converted into a restaurant (Ubin First Stop). She recounted the number of babies she delivered during her time when Ubin numbered more than 2000 residents then.

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    Morning scenics – 7. May, 2010

    Most scenic pictures of Ubin we see in the web are taken in the evening. There are very few pictures of sunrise unless you are a Ubin islander and is at the jetty every morning.

    The pictures here are taken by Mr. Moh. Mr. Moh and his wife have lived in Ubin for the last sixty years. Together they operate van taxis services on the island and we are one of their regular customers. Early this year Mr. Moh asked for my help to get him a digital camera. I got him a low cost Nikon camera.

    As it turns out, Mr. Moh pictures were beautiful, especially morning scenes while waiting for the first arriving customers. Sometimes there will be large ships crossing the narrow Johore straits under cloudy blue skies which make wonderful postcard pictures. Below are pictures Mr. Moh have taken. Click on them to enlarge.

    Cruise liner along Johore Straits
    Cruise liner along Johore Straits

    Sunrise over Ubin
    Sunrise over Ubin

    Wooden jetty in soft morning light
    Wooden jetty in soft morning light

    Shore birds flying
    Shore birds flying

    Curious monkey at Chek Jawa
    Curious monkey at Chek Jawa

    No so shy boar at Chek Jawa
    No so shy boar at Chek Jawa

    Mr. Moh van taxi rates are reasonable. You can also arrange bookings for early pickups or night trips. His mobile number is 97317629.

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    The Lion of Tor – 25. April, 2010

    Rhino Rock

    The first natural formation visitors would see in Pulau Ubin would be the “Rhino rock”. This nondescript rock owes its name to its resemblance to the shape of a rhinoceros. But a keen geologist would tell you more. The vertical furrows you see are shaped by rainwater, an ongoing process over thousands of years.

    Joseph Lai in his beautiful post “The Lion of Tor” liken it to a mane of a lion, shaped by Mother nature’s tears. I am inclined to agree with Joseph’s interpretation. It certainly look like a stone lion, something Sang Nila Utama could have seen and gave the name “Singapura”.

    A deeply furrowed rock being explored by kayakers.
    Granite rock with deep furrows

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    Durian knife – 10. April, 2010

    Durian season must be near. There are so many hits on this site for “durian season”. The flowering just begin in late March and harvest time should be around late June to mid August and peak time should be during early July.

    There is no need to have early head start. Early harvest are non viable premature durians. The middle of the harvest season is the best. There will be a glut where durians are sold at markets for as low as 50cts each.

    Durians are best eaten within hours of dropping. Those from Johore are harvested in the morning and brought to markets in Singapore by the evening. By then its almost too late. Some are already ripen and has fermented with cloying sweet smell instead of the usual robust durian flavor.

    Picking durians in Ubin is just fun activity and shouldn’t be taken seriously. Its more convenient just to buy and have the stallholders pick and open them for you.

    Unlike modern cultivars such as d24, durians from Ubin can be frustrating hard to open. With their thick and spiky shell, there is no hairlines visible to force a knife to pry open. To make short work of it, you need 2 useful tools if you intend to eat the durians there and then.

    A pair of protective gloves and a “durian knife”.
    durian knife and protective gloves

    Durian knives are actually hacking knives sold in hardware stores. They are thick bladed with full tang which you can pound a hammer from the rear and force the edge through. I bought mine for $13.00. Its perfectly legal to carry a knife for legitimate purpose (there is no blanket ban) but do keep the receipt as the police may ask all sorts of questions.

    Another alternative is to get a short kitchen knife. This brand with a dolphin logo is commonly found in shops selling kitchen wares. It has a full tang blade which allows you to pry safely. Keep the blade blunt to be safe.

    Full tang knife

    My friend Alan opening durian from its base. A wad of newspaper allows safe grip. He would make several chops along the hairlines to weaken its structure. The knife is then inserted to pry open.

    Opening durian

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    Jalan Wat Siam – 2. April, 2010

    Another fascinating part of Pulau Ubin may be restricted to visitors. Jalan Wat Siam, the road to the demolished Thai temple and nearby Kekek quarry, is closed to the public. The closure is contributed by another fatality due to bicycle crash, followed by sensational media stories about Ubin’s ‘cemetery road’. Like noose tightening, every time there is a fatality civil servants close up more areas to the public.

    Then there are warning signs, some excessive even as we walk along this road at night.
    signs! signs! signs!

    There are obvious ones like warning of falling branches.
    Warning! Falling branches.

    And the usual 4 Nos.
    null

    But the probably the most extreme is the the intimidating use of “Protected Area” signs ringing central catchment area, probably erected to discourage foreign workers and illegal migrants from hiding or illegal camping. We might also see such anachronisms in Ubin soon.

    Stop or I shoot

    Protected area signs on the way to the zoo.

    View Larger Map

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    Dengue busting dragonfly – 31. March, 2010

    Dragonflies are valuable predators that eat mosquitoes, including those that carrying dengue fever virus. Nparks commissioned a survey and they were surprisingly found to thriving in Singapore’s urban landscape. I am surprised too, with all the foggings going on in Singapore which sometimes throw dangerous smokescreen that floats over to expressways from condominiums nearby.

    Dragonflies are especially vulnerable when Nparks’ contractors pour insecticides into ponds that are already home to small fishes and dragonflies. Report to Nparks if you see any oily patches on natural ponds on your next trip to Ubin.

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    Digger Wasps (Sphex) – 5. March, 2010

    I stumbled upon these insects last year at Marman beach. Curious, I checked up wikipedia and wow! we have some fascinating creatures here. Apparently they behave in robot-like manner in their nesting behavior and were cited in philosophical arguments.

    I went back to take more pictures but they aren’t there anymore. I guess I would have to wait until their next mating season.

    As luck would have it. They are found in large numbers as in last week (28 Feb). You can photograph them in mid flight like what one of my party member did. Sort of aerial and macro photography rolled into one.

    Photo by Kelvin Tan.
    Digger wasps

    These wasps are natural agents in the control of grubs in the soil. These digger wasps do not sting people unless they are aggravated or captured by hand. Spare them by not complaining to Nparks who will dispatch foggers to annihilate them. Fogging is done indiscriminately in Singapore to control dengue fever and is doing serious damage to other insects and animals that feed on them.

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    Ubin for GPS exploring – 1. March, 2010

    Garmin 62s

    I having been exploring Ubin with a GPS for a number of years. GPS devices like Garmin uses free satellite signals and all you need is the AA batteries to power them. With backlighting on full, they last about 8 hours so its important to carry fresh backup batteries. I am using Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable batteries which performs better.

    Basic GPS functions.
    Its perhaps unfortunate that GPS is full of geek stuff. The simplest function is to learn how to create breadcrumbs (‘waypoints’ or ‘landmarks’) on key trail features such as junctions, bridges or buildings for simple navigation.

    As jungle trails are often featureless and following a winding path, next up in complexity is to learn how to set track logs. All you need is to set the GPS to record your trails as you walk. In the jungle, your trails appears zig-zagged looking like a bird nest due to inaccuracies due to tree cover. The track logs are then downloaded with free software to clean them. Once cleaned, the tracks can be uploaded back to the GPS for use later or shared online.

    Track logs are also useful to embed GPS co-ordinates into your digital photos using GPISync, a freeware from Google. This way, you don’t have to tether your camera to a GPS or purchase a dedicated camera GPS which are usually inferior in terms of accuracy.

    GPS recommendations.

    My favorite GPS model was Garmin 60CSx which is compact and popular. It has since been updated with 62 series. With its buttons layout it is easy to access frequently used functions but typing names of places is difficult. For that, I bought a Garmin Oregon 450 GPS which uses a touch-screen interface. The cons for Oregon is the dim screen in daylight. Its big brother, Garmin Montana has a bright and large screen which serve its dual function as a in-vehicle navigator. Having tried all, my preference is Garmin 62s for its secure grip, followed by Oregon 450 for its touch-screen and compact size. The shop I usually buy from is Perfect Watch at Level 1, Sim Lim Square.

    GPS Software.
    Software like Google Earth, Garmin Basecamp allow you to clean your track logs or plan your hike in advance. New Garmin models are able to load satellite images by subscribing to Garmin BirdsEye™ Satellite Imagery. The annual subscription costs is US$30. The subscription is worthwhile as I am able to download detailed images for Pulau Ubin. I am now able to confirm position of visible landmarks with better accuracy. Its would have been a chore to take multiple readings 90 minutes apart. I found out earlier that Google Earth images are not accurately positioned and cannot be relied upon.

    Sharing maps online.
    The problem with GPS is the babel of formats limiting its usefulness. Fortunately times have changed and formats like Google Earth KML are becoming popular, allowing users to share their maps on-line.

    Watch this space. I will be adding more tracks and locations of interesting places. You can also download the kml file and view it on Google Earth. With a bit of technical know how, you should also be able to download them into your GPS unit for your next trip to Ubin.

    Ubin on GoogleMaps
    Download Google earth kml file Updated 01 Mar 2009
    Ubin kml outline
    Download Free Google Earth Software

    Other GPS features to consider.

    More advanced units allow you to download routable maps that provide driving directions. Garmin users are able to download free routable maps for Singapore and Malaysia.

    There is a profusion of smartphones with similar GPS functions. I pay little attention to such 3G subscription based phones. Overseas telecos are scamming the public with exorbitant phones bills. I was in Dubai when I accessed its 3G for less than a minute before turning off the phone and was slapped with $700 phone bill. You are in luck if you have a Symbian S60v3 smartphone such as Nokia E71 or E72. Garmin have a navigation software called Garmin Mobile XT. With pre-loaded maps you do not have to incur expensive data charges. I installed it on my Nokia E72 which have built-in GPS and compass, albeit mickey-mouse in performance. Took as much as 20 minutes to locate satellites. Went to my favorite online site and ordered a Holux bluetooth M-1000 GPS to pair with my mobile. Results looks good with bonus voice prompt.

    ..
    Update: 11 July 2010. Negative experience with VPost.
    Ordered the Oregon 450 after reading positive reviews. Purchased from Amazon online which includes free shipping. My intention is to get it shipped to Vpost USA address who will then ship to Singapore with attractive shipping rates at one third the shipping costs. Shipping direct would have costs me US$90 instead. The only con is slower transit time but I am prepared to wait.

    Turns out to be a mistake. Vpost’s service is abysmal. First they refused to accept the shipment while its on its way. They claimed it contains batteries and is therefore considered as dangerous cargo even though Garmin do not ship batteries with their GPS. I have to write a letter twice to them together with description of the packing contents stating it contains no batteries. Next Vpost lost the shipment after USPS delivered it to them. I have to give them USPS tracking number thrice. Took them 2 weeks to tell me they do not have my shipment, giving me a one liner reply asking me to contact USPS myself. A note from them that they checked with USPS with no avail would have helped me claim a refund from Amazon. Disheartened I wrote to Amazon to help me trace my shipment with USPS and within 12 hrs Amazon wrote to me that it considered the shipment as lost and immediately refunded me. No questions asked. Amazon has my customer loyalty. Not for Vpost.

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    Fighting Spiders 2 – 28. February, 2010

    Jan/Feb is a good time to do an overnight stay in Ubin. Migratory birds are still around and the rubber plantation we stayed at were full of bird calls.

    With very little rainfall there are less mosquitoes to bother us. But tension can be felt as Ubin villagers anxiously wait for rains while watching their wells dry up. Trees shed leaves on the parched earth with added dangers of bush fires, one which broke out 10 days ago, burning an area about 5 basketball courts size at Ketam cycling trail. Durians trees are vulnerable if the drought continue, their flowers fails to bloom and, as happen before in 1997 and 1981, some of these majestic trees may even die as their roots dry up.

    The above concerns aside, our night at Ubin is filled with memories of the sixties as we watch the filming of Fighting Spiders 2, a local TV production. Ubin malay kampong is the only kampong left in Singapore left almost untouched by developments.

    The scientific name for our local fighting spiders variety is Thiania bhamoensis. Ubin field report by adult fighting spiders enthusiasts here.

    Story teller

    Location filming

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    Geocaching – 10. February, 2010

    For those unfamiliar with Geocaching, its a treasure hide and seek game using handheld GPS. The treasure can be tokens in a little box with a log book to write your message. You can sign up free with http://www.geocaching.com to participate.

    Treasure box

    I put up my first cache in Ubin in 2006. The response was encouraging. but soon there were complaints about wild pigs, mozzies and being near ancient gravestones. Being new to the game, the treasure was put in an obvious spot and was soon gone.

    I stopped soon after, plotting my next biggest and most convoluted cache for Ubin which this blog was originally created for. I never got round to it. But I am glad to meet a real life geocacher.

    Picture of Albert
    Albert

    If you like to find Albert’s caches in Ubin, make sure you have insect repellents as mosquitoes hiding in the jungle will soon be all over you. Bring at least a mini-button compass with you. Its easy to get lost and wander in circles while the gps vainly tries to lock your location under jungle canopy.

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    Fishing – 7. February, 2010

    Update June 12, 2011

    Fishing is good in Ubin now. Most likely due to devotees seeking merit by releasing live seafood in the sea. They should have built reef sanctuaries for the fish to hide and seek freedom in. Many bumboats were chartered out and visitors have to wait more than a hour for a boat to get back to mainland.

    Live seafood set free
    seafood set free

    Large grouper caught at Marman river and steam-cooked for our delight.
    Grouper caught at Marman river Updated: June 2010
    ..
    Update: 7 Feb 2010. Extremely lucky guy caught a large sea-bass at Marman beach.

    sea bass

    ..

    The best chance to catch fish is to paddle some distance away from shore.

    null

    Unfortunately Ubin marine life is slowly choked by pollution. The water cannot renew itself by tidal directions due to the causeway cutting off the straits. Water run-offs from ship repairs contribute to the pollution also. Sea-horses have long since disappeared. During heavy rains, salinity levels dropped so much that fish farms lost their livestock. The other is plankton bloom causing huge numbers of dead fish. They can’t sell their fish anyway as the water is declared unclean by the authorities.

    Below picture: Serene beach at Outward Bound School (No trespassing). Pasir Gudang Port can be seen in the background.

    OBS

    Fishing from the jetty
    For first timers, best bet is still at Ubin jetty using live baits which you can buy at Changi village. You can get lucky if fish were released by Buddhist groups.

    fishing from the jetty

    Other fishing spots.
    Ubin disused granite quarries are fenced up and trespassing is not allowed. Good fishing spots if they are opened to public. Snakeheads or Toman fish are seen there including Kois.

    Click here for google searches on latest discussion from fishingkaki.com. Like many of their members have observed, you need to be hardy to bear with mosquitoes and trek to remote spots. The taxi uncles knows where are the good spots if you charter their van-taxis. According to them, best lunar dates are 8-12, 24-28 when current are not too strong.


    Fishing at night.

    Although there are boats leaving for Ubin at night, its harder to fill up with passengers so waiting is necessary. Best is go on weekend eve or public holidays arriving at Changi Point Ferry before 8pm. Share costs of chartering the boat if there are not enough passengers. Bring enough food and drinks to last you the next morning.


    Crabs, shellfish and prawn fishing

    You can get large crabs like this for dinner and other shellfish. But that involves stomping in mud at low tides.

    mud crab - picture by Andy Ho

    lokan clam

    As for prawns, I have seen some anglers who got lucky and caught large ones while fishing during at the abandoned prawn farms during high tide.

    Fishing at Pulau Ubin

    View Results

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    Other restrictions
    Fishing at Chek Jawa is not allowed. Use small pen knives or razors to cut baits instead of large filleting knives to avoid being hassled unnecessarily by Aetos guys manning the x-ray counter.

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    Negasunt Powder – 17. January, 2010

    For the benefit of visitors looking for information on Negasunt, this is an update on the original article on my field experience with Negasunt powder.

    Matt is a large dog that is always getting into trouble. He had a large hole on the back of his left upper hind leg that is already swollen. Managed to squirt some Negasunt powder into the hole. Gave a villager a bottle of negasunt but unfortunately there was no follow-up and the hole was not treated for 2 weeks. In addition the poor dog managed to hurt its paws with a deep gash. Am pleased that its no longer limping and the hole is getting smaller after 2 further treatments 7 days apart.

    Matt being treated with Negasunt.
    Matt being treated with Negasunt

    Jack the wild pig has a wound on its cheek and flies are bothering him. He would put his affected cheek against the floor. But Jack would not allow anyone to come near. The best we can do is to sprinkle the powder at the spot where it lays its cheek. Cost us a total of 3 Negasunt powder after several failed attempts to treat him. Hopefully he recover soon.

    Jack with wound on its left cheek

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    Getting There – 31. December, 2009

    Here is Pulau Ubin on Googlemaps.

    Direction by boat

    How to get there by bus
    Bus numbers 2, 29, 59, 109 will take you there. Stop at the terminus. Head towards Changi Point Ferry Terminal (click for interactive map) northeast on Lorong Bekukong about 100 meters away.

    Getting there by Taxi/Car

    Ask for Changi Village, turn right into Lorong Bekukong next to the Bus Terminus. The carpark in front of Changi point jetty is often full so familiarize yourself with carparks nearby. Driving directions from Loyang Ave.

    Make sure you mention the correct ferry terminal by repeating “Changi Village, Changi Point Ferry Terminal” as there are 3 ferry terminals nearby including Changi Ferry Terminal (3.9km away), Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal (12 km ), Saf Ferry Terminal (2.1 km) .

    Ferry to Pulau Ubin island.
    Take the bumboat ferry, the boat trip takes about 15 to 20 minutes covering a distance of about 2.4km. It costs $2.50 per passenger and $2.00 per bicycle. Free ride for babies in arms. The boat departs when there are 12 passengers or when the boat get chartered for $30 when there are not enough passengers. Restrictions apply for pet dogs.

    The first ferry usually leave at 7-8 am, its usually filled with passengers going to work in Ubin such as contractors or shop owners. No problems if you plan to go earlier as some boatmen, especially older ones, prefer to sleep in their boats. They are usually at the jetty from 2am onwards.

    There is no last ferry service. The boatmen stop ferrying when the crowds thin down. On weekends, the crowds thin out from 4pm onwards going to Ubin and from 7.30pm returning from Ubin so expect to pay more by sharing and chartering if you are impatient. You may be stranded in Ubin if the boatmen has gone home so don’t hang around too late.

    Update Apr 16, 2010: Visitors’ level seems to have dropped. Its harder to get a boat to Ubin if you are planning to go there for fishing or camping at night. We played it safe by leaving for Ubin no later than 8pm when the boatmen are still around at Changi Point Jetty and sharing the full costs of $30.00 for the boat ride.
    We would also call ahead and inform the van drivers to expect our arrival, saving us the long trudge to the interior in the dark. You can call Mr. Moh at +65-9731-7629/ +659084-8827 or Tien Song at +65-93468017.

    Taking a taxi home from Changi Point.
    The best place to hail a cab is probably at the Changi Point Ferry terminal itself.

    You can also book a cab via sms by sending “book 499172 #changi point ferry terminal” to 71222.

    Other info

    Maps of Ubin. Brochures of Pulau Ubin with maps are no longer given out. They ended as rubbish all over the island. Instead, informative signposts and wall maps are found at all junctions. The bicycle rental shops will provide photocopies if they are needed for route planning purposes. More links on detailed maps.

    crumpled maps

    For info on hotel stay and restaurants at Pulau Ubin and surrounding Changi area.
    Bumboat ride video link 1, video link 2

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    Bukit Puaka – Pulau Ubin Highest Point – 24. December, 2009

    Ubin Highest Point

    Click here for panorama view of Ubin from Bukit Puaka, its highest point.

    The last time we went up there was more than 10 years ago. Then, fallen branches and overgrown bushes would block our path making progress slow and difficult. I was deterred also by the uncomfortable vertigo sensation and the worry of being struck by lightning.

    But weather has been dry in Ubin for several weeks already (that was in February 2009, this post is being moved). The sun was hot and its good time to update the blog by taking pano shots and record its tracks on gps.

    We went up but were again blocked by overgrown bushes. As machetes are viewed unfavorably by the police, we can only use a little saw from a Swiss army knife to cut through.

    Our efforts at making a trail for others were in vain when ants from a disturbed nest went on a biting rampage. Its was only then when we were looking for an alternative way that we found out there is a already a well maintained trail leading to the top.

    The trail is easy to find and is just next to Merbah hut. It is also easy to climb and slightly steep at one point. The view is just magnificent. Do watch from a safe distance. Do not peer over the cliff and lose your balance as a result.

    There is a rock at the top with drill holes large enough to stuff dynamite in. The quarry operators must be desperate to mine the last granite piece before giving up. Its top was blown up and the peak is now a few meters shorter from its original height of 74 meters. According to Ubin villagers, the top was lopped off for aircraft safety when Changi Airport was a military airport then.

    During the Malayan Emergency, the hill provide vantage points for Ubin islanders watching RAF bombers on their bombing runs on communist targets. A futile show of force like what the Americans did when they bombed the jungles of Vietnam for their elusive enemies.

    Bombing suspected communist hideouts

    You can download the directions and view it on Google apps.

    View in Googlemaps
    Download for viewing on Googlearth

    Update Apr 16, 2010: This tall peak was called Bukit Puaka. “Puaka Air” is a Malay term for water ghost which SPI followers are most keen to draw obvious connection. Puaka could also be a mispronunciation for a hill named in honor of William Farquhar, the 1st Resident of colonial Singapore.

    Old map with Bukit Puaka shown. Grid scale 1km
    Map of Bukit Puaka in Ubin

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    Pulau Ubin abandoned prawn farms – 21. December, 2009

    Prawn farming used to be thriving in Pulau ubin. Inland swamps are parceled out with dykes. Sluice gates are constructed to control the flow of water.

    Water pollution contributed to its demise. See further story below.

    From GoogleEarth, one can see its scale by its tell tale remnants.

    abandoned prawn farms

    With GoogleEarth, we manage to plot our course by connecting dots of white roofs peeking through dense trees canopy seen under satellite. The course or path is then downloaded into our handheld GPS.

    It led us first to a swing.

    swing

    Then a lovely kampong house

    malay kampong house

    Finally a sweeping view from the remaining sluice gate, also a prime spot for bird watching.

    view from sluice gate

    Natural swamps are an important spawning grounds for fishes and with young fishes finding easy refuge. The sluice gates continues today as barriers. At low tide, the remaining fish are easily caught by fishermen casting fine nets.

    sluice gate

    The demise of prawn farms contd..
    Other operators went in the big way into growing prawn hatchlings and using artificial feed. Their high density farming required plenty of electricity and fuel to keep the water aerated and filtered. But no man can mimic the power of God to turn deserts into fertile farmlands. The prawns could not survive to adulthood. Even fish farming did not work when holes appear on heads of the fish. Some even turn to sai kongs or taoist priests to purify their leased land.

    sai kong

    The Government’s decision to raise price of diesel was the final nail in the coffin. In the end lease were eventually given up back to the Government and building structures demolished. There was a Japanese entrepreneur in the late eighties who failed after spending $5 million and committed suicide when he returned back to Okinawa. Many Ubinites feel Pulau Ubin is cursed but even now it have not deterred people from seeking El-Dorado or being conned into it. If you are approached with a money making idea for Ubin, remember that the real God of Pulau Ubin is not Earth God or tu-di-kong but SLA who controls the fate of Pulau Ubin and who makes sure you cannot move an inch of earth or transfer any lease or build an English manor without their expressed permission.

    The last English bungalow in Ubin
    House No 1 Pulau Ubin


    Prawn Fishing at Ubin
    The last lease holder at Marman river used the traditional method of harvesting prawns. A trawling net is placed where rushing water from outgoing tide flow through a narrow gate. The catch isn’t much, just one or 2 styrofoam box, enough for beers and food for a 3 men operation. The work is dangerous too as falling into the net means certain death from drowning. The method of farming is destructive as any unwanted fish or horseshoe crabs are either dead or trashed. We used to visit them at night curious to see what they have caught. But that was a few years ago when it was abandoned as catches became meagre.

    You need to battle legions of mosquitoes to go prawn fishing there and if lucky get yourself a jumbo prawn after surviving the sticky heat and insect bites.

    Its also a spooky place too. People have seen Na Tuks and one have seen an extra person among them. There was once a sai-kong who claimed to have cleared the area of wondering souls so they would not bother the living anymore.

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    Ubin Wild Fowl – 10. November, 2009

    My friend Andy who have been photographing Ubin wildlife told me Ubin wild fowl can be difficult to photograph. One can only get fleeting glimpses as they dash through the jungle floor.

    If you are lucky you may come across a brood of chicks following its parents. The chicks are vulnerable to natural predators including monitor lizards, monkeys and wild pigs. Wild pigs would churn up jungle floor for earthworms, removing undergrowth and giving the fowls less place to hide. There are worrisome signs as some Ubin villagers notice their numbers are declining.

    My concerns turn to elation when I saw 17 adults, male and female while walking along coastal walk at Chek Jawa. Chek Jawa is now a secured area and is closed after 6.30 pm. Thanks Nparks for keeping them safe from poachers.

    Ubin jungle fowl

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    Poachers and their cruel traps – 27. October, 2009

    Poaching has been in decline in Ubin since x-ray checks was introduced at Changi Point jetty. These poachers would trap birds with fine nets, catch monitor lizards with fish-hooks or catch wild pigs using trap doors.

    wild pig trap

    Nparks rangers have been combing Ubin and have destroyed about 10 such wild pigs traps so far. The poachers have resorted to steel-jaw leghold traps that are both cruel and dangerous, whether for wild pigs, family pets or accidental tourists walking through the jungle.

    Injured dog

    One victim was this unfortunate dog brought over to the mainland for emergency treatment. Gangrene has already set in and the leg has to be amputated. Its companion is also hobbling with a missing foot. The rescued dog is now recovering at PetVilla, a no-kill shelter run by Animal Lovers League.

    Watch out for such traps and alert the authorities.

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    Palm Civet Cat – 27. October, 2009

    Palm Civet Cat

    We were lucky to spot this civet cat (paradoxurus hermaphroditus) up close in our night walks. Caught out by our flashlights, it froze allowing us to take pictures.

    Coffee seeds harvested from the feces of the Palm Civet Cat is most sought after and is the most expensive in the world. Pulau Ubin used to have coffee plantations before the war. Next time we might just go looking for their droppings in old coffee groves for some good “weasel coffee”.

    Civet cat droppings with undigested forest seeds.

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    Off! Insect Repellent – 15. October, 2009

    The first time I use ‘Off” insect repellent was in Taman Negara National Park. Then it wasn’t the mosquitoes that bother us but leeches. We would spray our ankles with them to stop the leeches from crawling up our legs.

    The mosquitoes in Ubin can be torture. The solutions we tried include burning egg cartons, coconut husks, mosquito coils, smoky benzoin incense which bomohs use, ingesting vitamin B and vitamin E tablets. Nparks even set a high tech mosquito killing machine once.

    In the interest of science, I took vitamin B pills for one month and went into the bush without repellents. It seems to be working initially. Then all of a sudden the mosquitoes were all over me. Its 4 days since and I am still scratching

    Nothing beats the convenience of using spray repellents containing DEET. My eight year old nephew is allergic to insect bites and he has to be sprayed all over. For face and neck, just spray them in your palm and rub to avoid stinging your eyes. No point spraying until wet. They are expensive and soon empty fast. Spray a little mist and repeat a few hours later.

    They costs S$8.50 at major outlets. Some provision shops sells them for S$7.50 each. They are a lot cheaper in Indonesia. Autan is also a popular brand there.

    Update: 21 Apr 2009. Prices of “OFF!” repellent seems to go up all the time. Its now $8.50 at Guardian pharmacy. I am going to switch to 3M “Ultrathon”, which is also used by armed forces worldwide. Although it costs nearly the same, it contains 25% DEET, which won’t get washed away quickly when you are sweating in the jungle heat.

    Update: 1 Apr 2010
    Watson’s price for Off! and Ultrathon repellent is most reasonable so far at about $7.50 for Off! and one dollar more for Ultrathon.
    Update: 23 Jun 2010.
    Ultrathon is now ridiculously priced $9.60 at Watson.

    Ultrathon and Off! spray repellents

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    Black Spitting Cobra – 13. September, 2009

    I have heard stories of Ubin dogs killed or blinded by spitting cobras. I haven’t seen any until last week and again today in two separate locations. Fortunately they are easy to spot as they flee in their slender dark shape against the lighter colored forest floor.

    As in their nature, dogs will gave chase to fleeing prey. It when it raised its head and spread its hood in defense that I realized its a cobra and spitting one too after googling for them when I got home.

    The dogs accompanying me were not hurt. I was yelling at them to get away that I didn’t get to take pictures.

    They looked exactly like the picture below from SLOG (Singapore Snakes Blog)

    Naja Sumatrana

    You need not worry about poisonous snakes if you are just a casual visitor to Ubin. Snakes are shy creatures that keep away from humans. I stumbled upon them while walking in places that are usually deserted.
    There are also natural predators including wild boars, monitor lizards which help keep down the number of snakes.

    According to Mr. Lim who lives at Marman beach orchid farm, cobras are attracted to toads which form major part of their diet in Ubin and are plentiful in the rubber plantation. He would often find a cobra nearby when he see toads hopping and fleeing away.

    Should you get a snake bite kit for your next camping trip? Most sites advise against getting snake bites kits. Best is to call Police Coast Guard by dialing 999 if you need help in emergency. My friend picked up what he thought was a grass snake. Turned out to be to be a paradise tree snake which promptly bit him. He thought he is going to die but the Nature society guys around him assured him that its mildly poisonous and the pain would subside in a few hours. One Ubin villager got nearly bitten by a cobra while finding durians. Fortunately for her the snake was not able to sink its fangs but raked over the leg which showed a line of small puncture marks. Not only mongoose or honey badgers win their fights against the venomous cobra, there are many cases where village dogs killed cobras. Cobras has to strike accurately to kill but they don’t always do and the dogs would kill by grabbing and shaking violently.

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    Scorpion – 10. September, 2009

    Scorpions can be found in Ubin. We found this injured scorpion (Liocheles Australasiae) at one of the NPark shelter.

    You can find them at night using a UV flashlight. They will glow in the dark.

    scorpion

    Update: 10 September 2009.

    This China made UV torch is highly recommended. At 3 watt power, it is strong enough to light the jungle floor and spot small scorpions 3 metres away.

    3 watt UV torch

    You can also find scorpions when you walk along the jungle boardwalk at Npark Lower Peirce Reservoir (entrance near Old Upper Thomson/Jacaranda road)

    Update: 3 April 2010

    Their other uses include detecting fake dollars, make your luminous watch glow brightly, detect urine and semen. Although a fun toy, just remember that UV lights can damage eyes so do not stare into the bulb or shine your friends’ or pets’ eyes directly. They cannot substitute general flashlight use as you will get a splitting headache.

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    Scorpions watching – 4. September, 2009

    The best place to watch for scorpions in Ubin is at the rubber plantation behind Npark Murai Hut.

    We brought UV flashlights for our regular night walks and were able to see many as they glowed under UV lights.

    Many are small ones hiding in tree hollows and parks. Best to remind those around not to rest their palms trunks or probe little holes with fingers. I was once bitten by one in Thailand. Its so painful that I thought a small snake has bitten me and refused to let go.

    With a bit a patience we were soon rewarded with a 7 cm specimen which we were able to photograph. Scorpions will scamper away once they sense something threatening. The trick which I learned when playing with fighting spiders is to blow air at it steadily, causing the scorpion to remain still. One of us would point the UV flashlight while the other took pictures of it.

    Lychas Scutilus
    Lychas Scutilus

    Update: Aug 2011

    We found a magnificent specimen by the road at night(7.30pm). A folded dollar note was placed next to it for size comparison.

    large scorpion

    One of their favorite food are spiders which are plentiful in the same area. This scorpion had just finished its meal when we took pictures of it.

    scorpion in shadow

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    Night walking – 14. August, 2009

    Other than at the jetty and Npark toilets, there are no street lighting in Ubin. A good thing which encourages shy animals and birds to come out at night. Also, nightscapes looks just as bright even under moonlight as your eyesight is tuned to the darkness.

    We also brought an arsenal of flashlights. They are needed to perform several functions, such as lights dimmed for camp lighting, flood lights for walking, long distance throw lights for animal spotting and light painting for night photography.

    It was a rewarding night when we went over to Ubin on National day.

    Picture below (Photograph taken by my buddy Alan Tay). Elusive civet cat. We heard its mewling and spotted in the trees with our flashlights. Accordingly to Mr. Lim who lives nearby, its probably a young civet cat calling for its mother.

    Civet cat

    Scorpion about 4cm in size under UV flashlight (taken by Andy Ho).

    Scorpion under UV light

    Light painting of coconut tree luxuriantly covered with Dragon Tail Vine (picture by Andy Ho).

    Dragon Tail Vine (Epipremnum pinnatum)

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    July – North Shore – 17. July, 2009

    June was so hot. My energy sapped just thinking of the heat. The weather is tolerable enough for July. Decided to explore northern part of Ubin. Its close to shore with some comforting breeze.

    The natural pond I mentioned earlier is now precariously dried out. It was teaming with fish and but whatever left are hoping for the rain to come.

    Natural pond

    Walked further north and came across some marshland off the track. The marsh shore is pebbled with granite chips. This is where granite is hauled into barges from nearby quarries. The water is shallow and the ground below is firm from the compacted granite. Mudskippers dart about as I waded in knee deep water. This should be an interesting place to explore in future.

    The dogs accompanying me wasted no time to cool off and explore on their own.

    Dogs cooling off

    Pebbly shore

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    May – Hot and Humid – 6. June, 2009

    It has been hot and humid for weeks already. The heat is so overwhelming that the only place cool enough is at the jetty where there are some breeze. Generally temperatures above 30s and with humidity above 75% is considered too hot. Avoid the western side of Ubin where there are less tree cover.

    Excessive sweating can be a problem. I remember the legs cramps and the worry of not being able to get home the last time while cycling the furthest reach of Ubin. This time I make sure I have a tube of muscle balm with me.

    Prevention would a better idea. Other than isotonic drinks like 100 plus, pocari sweat, H-Two-O, you can try sugar free alternatives such as diet coke added with salt. Its my favorite drink. I would order from Ali’s coffeeshop at Ubin jetty before starting my day’s adventure. Then there are coconuts. Nature’s healthy isotonic drink. Click on their links for its nutrition value compared to isotonic drinks.

    The coconuts sold in Ubin are imported from Thailand and from Malaysia. Thai coconuts are sold for $2.50 each. They are very sweet and contain less coconut water. You can find cheaper Ubin coconuts too. Ubin coconuts are huge with enough water for 2 persons. It may not be sweet but I prefer them for it’s natural taste. Of course, the coconuts are prepared fresh before your very eyes.

    Coconut being prepared

    Due to the danger of falling coconuts, Nparks goes around Ubin and harvest them. But sometimes they go too far and chopped the trees down. Their fears are misplaced. A scholarly article on “Injuries Due to Falling Coconuts” by Peter Barss estimated that estimates that over a four-year period five deaths in his hospital’s service area were related to coconut palm trees (including climbers falling out of them -Source). The coconut trees at Marman beach have already been cleared. No more trees to tie hammocks by the beach now.

    If you are in Ubin taking snapshots remember to take souvenir shots of coconuts trees in Ubin. I do that every chance I got. They are so beautiful. And worthy of heritage status.

    Coconut tree

    Additional Coconut bibliography

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    McDonalds at Ubin – 2. June, 2009

    As regulars we were bemused when a visitor asked if she can get big Macs in Ubin. There are only a handful of food outlets in Ubin island so its probably a good idea to get packed lunch and bring it over instead.

    Only Chinese food and Malay food are sold in Ubin island. Ubin is crowded only during weekends and public holidays. Its quiet during weekdays which discourage new food outlets. There is also the logistical difficulty of getting potable water from the mainland as well water is not allowed by the health authorities for food preparation.

    It sounds like a great idea for a romantic dinner by the beach. But there are few bumboats plying late into the night. Make sure also you spray some repellents on your ankles before getting bitten by sandflies.

    As for dry snacks, there are provision shops at the village. Beside selling drinks, the mak chik (auntie) at the Malay Kampung sells some Oreos cookies and spray repellents. It pays to make friends if you are a regular to the island. I was lucky when she cooked us some delicious nasi lemak and also let us feast on durians from nearby durian trees.

    Despite the lack of food choices, canned drinks and fresh coconuts are readily available. Try the local coconuts, they are large, cheap and are full of water. The canned drinks are brought over by boats from the mainland but they are still sold at the same prices. Their sales help supplement the islanders meagre income so do support them. Its still cheaper to spend in Ubin than an outing in places like East Coast Park.

    Ali’s Malay food by the jetty
    Ali Malay food by the jetty

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    Mosquito Coils – 27. May, 2009

    Mosquito coils are probably the cheapest and easily available form of insect repellent. It works by producing smoke which drives mosquitoes away. Mosquitoes coil from approved brands like Baygon contain active compounds like Transfluthrin, a synthetic chemical compound similar to the natural chemical pyrethrins produced by the flowers of pyrethrums for “knock down effects” but not killed.

    Baygon mosquito coils
    It look like a puzzle to a first time user. Taken out, each piece look like a spiral pancake which are actually 2 coils stuck together. The trick is to carefully pry them loose without breaking them. I would start from the center and slowly separate by shaking them loose.

    There is one metal coil stand included in each box of 10 coils. It come flattened so push the centre to form a ninety degree stand. Light the coil with a candle for about a minute and put it on the stand. Depending on wind and humidity, each coil should last about eight hours.

    Mosquito coils were invented in Japan in 1890 and they are most widely used today, with 29 billion mosquito coils are sold each year and 95% used in Asia. (see link)

    Mosquito coil stand

    You need more coils placed in open spaces toward the wind for maximum cover. We would put up five or more coils as the wind change directions through the night. You can check if you have enough smoke cover by shining an LED torch.

    As there are only one coil stand per box, improvised stands need to be made as the coils will soon stop burning if placed on flat ground. A little height is needed. The coils should not be placed in the open as jungle dew will soon smother them.

    Improvised hanging coil holder using thin wire.
    improvise hanging coil

    Do not put them in your tent either. You’ll will soon choke with acrid smoke and your tent will soon be smoked with oily residues and become unusable because of the lingering smell.

    Do not throw away the stands but save them for your next camping trip.
    Keep the coil stands for future use

    You can also buy portable coil holders that clamp the coil with inner mesh and can be carried around. With it, the coils can also be burnt at both ends to generate more smoke.
    portable coil holder

    Some people believe that burning coils is like inhaling 100 cigarettes. In that case you can improvise by making smoke with less pungent alternatives like egg cartons and coconut husks. Make sure you put out the flame after lighting it, the egg carton will smolder. Cut the egg carton in halves and lay them in line to extend the smoking time.

    Buring egg cartons

    Make sure coconut husks are dry as it does not burn well.
    Burning coconut husks

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    Granite Island – 21. April, 2009

    Pulau Batu Ubin is Malay word for granite stone island. Granite rocks from Pulau Ubin were used in the construction of Horsburgh Lighthouse on the island of Pedra Branca in 1850.

    For those searching for info on Horsburgh Lighthouse. It is built on a tiny rock island and public is not allowed on shore although fishing is allowed around the island. The trip there by boat takes about 4 hrs and only intrepid anglers go there. Currents there is treacherous as ships have sunk there.

    Pedra Branca

    Large granite outcrops can be seen especially at low tides when visitors step on the jetty on arrival.

    Further down at the Jetty’s entrance, next to Ali’s coffee shop, one can still see drill marks on a huge chunk of granite.


    steam drill marks

    A gnarled tamarind tree grew on top of the granite. It still fruits twice a year. As a little boy during the Japanese occupation, Ali would climb the tamarind tree for its tarty tasting fruit, helping to stave hunger when food were scarce then.

    Despite its history, Nparks is unwilling to designate it as a heritage tree and afford it with lightning protection due to its weak foundations.

    Tamarind tree next to Ali's coffeeshop

    Further evidence of early granite quarrying where steam drilling were used can be seen as one walks east from the jetty to Nparks secret garden. The ‘cliffs’ there are not natural cliffs formation but hewn granite with drill marks still showing.

    Before that, an old Japanese guard post stood, entombed by a shady banyan tree.

    Japanese Occupation Guard House

    On top of the ‘cliffs’ one can hear wild jungle fowls and lively bird singing and they fight for their mates attention. I wondered what is the view like up there, will it yield a panaromic view of the village. I hope to be able to find out.

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    Chinese kampung houses – 6. April, 2009

    As a kid I would draw a house by drawing a roof on top of a rectangular block. A door is next drawn centre with 2 windows by its side. The house I drawn existed only in my mind until I first visited Ubin. To my surprise the Chinese kampong houses there were built the same way.

    Sadly most wooden houses in Singapore are in danger of rotting away or being demolished. Take pictures of them on your next trip to Ubin. This one is located between Nparks kiosk and the island police station.

    Chinese kampung houses

    Another example of a Chinese kampung house along Jalan Ubin north of Belatok Hut.
    Chinese kampung house

    Chinese kampung house at Chinese cemetery along Jalan Batu Ubin.
    chinese kampong house at chinese cemetery

    How kampong houses are built in Pulau Ubin.

    Malay Kampung house

    Malay kampung houses are usually built close to the sea or river, which offer an abundance of food the whole year round. Immigrants from China, who settled later, build their kampungs houses inland as they are traditionally farmers.

    Building materials used before the war are native materials including light hardwood of red meranti varieties or more expensive hardwood from “Kapok” tree (Ceiba pentandra). The roofs are built using leaves from attap trees (which you can see on the way to Chek Jawa near Kelicap Hut). In addition, Malay kampong houses are usually built on stilts, with extremely hardy bakau mangrove wood. Coconut trunks are not preferred unless taken from the hardier bottom trunk. The houses are typically built single storey with two or three bedrooms separated by bamboo mats walls. For toilets, outhouses are built or in the case of Malay kampongs, human waste put into baskets weaved from coconut leaves and disposed in the nearby stream or river away from human habitation.

    Outhouse at Ubin village (photo by Jani Patokallio)
    Outhouse at Ubin village

    There would be a communal well built near a small mosque or surau (a well preserved communal well can be seen on the way to Chek Jawa).

    Zinc roofs and cement came after the war. Cement are expensive then, usually the kitchen, toilet and other wet areas have cement floors and steps are cemented as Malays tend to be house proud while keeping their compounds neat and tidy.

    Cement steps of a beautiful Malay house in Pulau Ubin
    Malay kampong house

    Chinese kampong folks tend to be hoarders and their compounds are usually strewn including anything that are of remote use.

    Cluttered front yard
    cluttered frontyard

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    Mousedeer sightings – 30. March, 2009

    Greater mousedeer
    Picture above. The elusive Greater Mousedeer photographed at Tabin Wildlife Reserve.

    With the last official sighting 80 years go, its great news to learn that Greater mousedeers were sighted on Ubin. (Another link)

    Mousedeers are called Pelandok in Malay or Kancil in Bahasa Indonesia. Some Ubin villagers have seen them, but they have also spotted sun bears and gibbons in Ubin so its hard to believe what they saw. There are even reports of tiger being sighted spooking everyone. I once saw an old boar with strange gait that I almost thought I saw an orang-utan.

    The reduction of people residing in Ubin has brought some unexpected benefits. The enlargement of Outward Bound School perimeter occupying nearly the whole Western side of Ubin also help create a “no man’s land” where animals have space to themselves. I am hoping to find squirrels which used to be common in Ubin many years ago.

    But opposing Yin Yang forces are still at play. Contractors are indiscriminately fogging some places in Ubin killing mosquitoes, butterflies and other insects alike. They pour chemicals to kill mosquitoes larvae when there are pond fishes already feeding on them. There are huge land development going in Johore just 5 km north of Chek Jawa, potentially cutting off migrating animals like wild boars who are able to swim across to Ubin. The creation of an anti smuggling fence sealed Ubin further. There is a family of otters in Ubin itself which may not survive as a breeding population.

    Pollution is problematic with tanker washings going on at Johore side, discharging oil and tar. The rivers of Johore are choked with rubbish landing on Ubin shores that some visitors declared Noordin beach as the dirtiest beach they ever saw.

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    Mountain bike rental – 24. March, 2009

    Renting bikes in Ubin is cheaper compared to the mainland. 7 shops vie for business and their bikes can be hired from S$5.00 to S$15.00 per day. Bike rentals at East Coast Park typically start at S$8.00 an hour.

    Payment is cash upfront and no deposits or IDs are retained.

    Besides ensuring his/her own safety, the onus is on the hirer to test the bike. Here are some tips.

    1. Choose lighter bikes as they are generally better constructed.
    2. You are allowed to test ride the bikes, check that
    a) Both front and rear brakes are working
    b) The gears work under load without slippage or clacking sounds
    c) The tires are not bald and are firmly inflated
    d) The seat are adjusted at a comfortable height and angle.

    Given its uneven terrain, avoid single gear “Tokyo Lady” bikes or cumbersome tandem bikes if you are going long distances and cycling through muddy tracks. Do not over-exert yourself to avoid painful cramps.

    Think twice also about renting smaller bikes for kids. They are harder to pedal and kids have a hard time catching up. They soon tire and that is when accidents happen. I have seen many occasions where family outings are cut short as a result. Hire a van or take enjoy a slow walk instead.

    Tandem bikes are not safe for terrain slopes.
    tandam bike for three

    Wear proper footwear and comfortable clothes to avoid overheating.
    Consider personal safety and rent helmets that are available for 2-3 dollars. Accidents frequently happen when people are tired and disorientated by the heat. There are other vehicles so cycle single file, do not bunch up and go at speeds you are able to control and brake well.

    Picture below. Foolish way to enjoy Ubin. Kid without helmet perched on handlebars.
    danger to self

    Never leave a kid perched on a bike unattended. The flimsy stand can slip with a nasty falll.

    Never leave a kid unattended

    Bicycles with child seat are not strong enough for 2 adults
    bicycle with child seat

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    Pulau Ubin Emergencies – 20. March, 2009

    Bike crashes or bike accidents are common in Pulau Ubin

    For emergencies dial 999. This may not work. Simply because our telcos do not cover Ubin fully and and you get roaming coverage from Malaysian telcos instead.

    You then get a ‘free’ spam sms message from Starhub.
    Starhub Welcome

    Update: Jan 2012, Starhub has apparently cleaned up their act, their signals stayed locked throughout the whole day while we were trekking. My friend is able to browse and surf faster than in mainland Singapore.

    For serious injuries which need professional response, here are the emergency numbers provided by NPark to call.

    Emergency numbers

    If it is minor scratches or abrasions, you may call van operators – Mr. Moh at +65-9731-7629/ +659084-8827 or Tien Song at +65-93468017 to drive you back to the jetty. Speak to them in Mandarin or slowly in English.

    Here are the phone numbers in QR Code.
    Emergency numbers

    The nearest hospital is Changi General Hospital which is 10km or 15 minutes away by taxi (Googlemaps directions)

    The van operators may decline to assist if the injuries are potentially serious which may involve police investigations. Our police play a important role in building confidence in order for public to come forward and help accident victims, potentially saving lives when immediate help are given.

    Red Cross or St. John volunteers should set up first aid posts on Pulau Ubin.

    Its probably best to bring a whistle and avoid exploring remote areas alone by yourself.

    For other forms of ‘emergencies’, familiarize yourselves with the location of NParks public toilets and bring an emergency toilet roll. Once I had to dive into the quarry lake to do my business. My scout master warned not to use leaves instead of toilet papers as we might get allergic rash.

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    Wet March – 16. March, 2009

    The south west monsoon arrived, just in time when the grass were dying and trees began to shed leaves from lack of rain. Visitors levels fell, making it longer for the bumboats to fill up and leave. Avoid visiting Ubin late in the afternoon or leaving late at night unless you are prepared to wait or share the expense of chartering the whole boat.

    Here is a typical wet day in pictures.

    Weather turn ominous on way to Ubin.
    Bumboat in rain

    Waiting for ferry in the rain
    Waiting for ferry

    Wet Girl guides
    Girl guides

    Very wet little girl
    Wet little girl

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    Bumboats – 10. March, 2009

    Bumboat

    They say the must thing to do before you die is to take a Star Ferry ride in Hong Kong. I would also recommend Ubin bumboats to the list. These wooden boats are made to last a lifetime. The craftsmen making them are no more and good timbers are increasing hard to find. Ask any foreign tourist, he will tell you the experience is different compared to going in a fibreglass or steel hull boat. You know you are going for an adventure. The bumboats define Ubin for what it is for many of us. A rustic getaway where our cares and work stress are cast away.

    wooden hull bumboat

    The term possibly derives from the Dutch boomboat, a broad-beamed fishing boat, it first appears in England in 1685 under which scavenging boats attending ships in the Thames were employed to remove ‘filth’ from ships, and also to carry vegetables for sale on board (further links).

    No bumboats are built alike. I would stand at the stern feeling the fresh air and getting great angles for snapshots. The paints are all weather worn making them ideal subjects.

    Unlike bumboats seen at Singapore river, no decorative ‘eyes’ are painted on their bows.
    Bumboat with painted eyes

    jetskiBumboat Ride

    Still there are folks who write to the press and complain about them being ‘accidents’ waiting for happen. What isn’t then? Your fancy new car is also a deadly projectile. Boats do sink but these bumboats aren’t exactly submarines. With human factor, even modern boats like Ms Estonia took down 852 lives. They clamor for ‘modern’ ferry service like the one that stopped plying to Sentosa. Who wants to wait for hourly scheduled service needed to fill up such unwieldy boats. Those familiar with Kusu islands remember the snaking queues waiting for ferries.

    After ferrying thousands and thousands of passengers, these MPA annually certified boats have no mishaps for the last 10 years. Maintain water vigilance, if need be leave your babies and toddlers with your in-laws and come to Ubin to recapture your childhood as adults. Ubin cannot be redeveloped for everyone without destroying its character which many people find so charming. It cannot be remade like another sterile chinatown or non-starters like Tang village or Haw Par amusement park. Nor does it need expensive life support like Sentosa island. In Ubin, school kids get genuine chance to enjoy outdoors fun and camping in an island with a safe home shore without burning a large hole in their parents’ pockets.

    Picture below. Ex-member of parliament Ho Kah Leong painting Ubin fast disappearing scenes (year 2000)..

    Ho Kah Leong

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    Malay Cemetery – 9. March, 2009

    In the not so distant past Pulau Ubin is inhabited with more than 1,000 residents, many of who were Boyanese (or Baweanese) from Indonesia. Chek Jawa were so named because of their Javanese origins. It is common to have family grave plots although there are larger Chinese and Muslim cemetery plots in Ubin. Thankfully, the authorities are leaving them untouched to keep the island’s historical roots intact.

    Family grave of an adult and children buried together at Chek Jawa.
    family graveplot

    There is another less traveled cycling trail on the way to Chek Jawa which leads to the only mosque in Pulau Ubin. Unfortunately it is demolished along with other houses nearby.

    Old Ubin mosque (photo taken in 1999)
    Old Ubin mosque

    What is left now is a cemetery plot. Its hidden in the upper slopes and the only clue to its presence is a trail seemingly going nowhere.

    The location is shown here
    GoogleEarth
    GoogleMaps

    The cemetery is probably of interest to local paranormal interest groups fascinated by such stuff. It has been around since 1950s from the inscription below
    Its a serene place and well worth exploring.

    Inscription

    There are several well preserved wells. The water is sweet, which is what mariners refers to water from natural sources, or what others refer as still spring water. Try a sip.

    Click here for a panorama view. (Warning – large file download)
    (more…)

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    Why you so like that? – 19. February, 2009

    Foreign visitors would probably find this quaint Singlish phrase while cycling around Ubin.

    I am not sure where it comes from, probably borrowed from Chinese language. I don’t speak Cantonese, but the recent Crazy woman misses flight video sensation provides some clues.

    Don't be like this

    Back to the story. Leong Kiat, the owner of the house where the sign is located is a very friendly person. But at that time in 1999, many homes in Ubin were being demolished. I was trying to record as many disappearing landmarks with the early digital cameras like Sony Mavica FD71. Here was the original sign before it was painted over with a catchy slogan from Sprite. Some scouts noticed the change and offered to paint back the old sign as it has been their favorite landmark for a long time.

    Lets hope it stays this way.

    Picture below. Original sign.
    The original sign

    Picture below. Sprite logo.
    Obey your thirst

    Picture below. Current sign.
    Why you so like that

    View on googlemaps
    kml download

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    February in Ubin – 14. February, 2009

    The dry season is here. Fortunately its still breezy from the wind blowing from the North. The tracks are dry making it easy to walk.

    We went to the North Shore. There is a natural pond teeming with tiny little fishes. A kingfisher perch overhead waiting for an easy meal.

    kingfisher

    Shrinking pond

    Location on Google map
    Download kml

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    Google Earth – 3. February, 2009

    The best things in life are free. And the latest update of Google Earth Release 5.0.11337.1968 (beta) is even better, especially for Ubin explorers.

    I used to get detailed pictures of Chek Jawa. Then one day, its gone, just blurred out. Conspiracy theories filled my head. Maybe the secretive government made a request as there is a Navy port nearby.

    With the new update of Google Earth, you can slide back to earlier satellite imagery(Jul, 2004).

    Edit 24 Feb 2009. Google earth satellite updated imagery can be off as much as 30 metres making cartography more challenging. I find Dec 2003/Apr 2004 to be more accurate. Download the KML files and see for yourself.

    Here is a screen grab of Chek Jawa during low tide. You can see how extensive it is and why its worth protecting and for future generations to enjoy.

    Chek Jawa

    You cannot see it clearly with the later satellite imagery (Feb, 2005). It was taken during hazy conditions and during high tide.

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    Lost in Pulau Ubin – 2. February, 2009

    Update: 21 Mar 2011

    Direction signposts with distance are now erected at major junctions which makes easier to get around Pulau Ubin.

    direction signposts

    There are basically 4 main directions. East, West, and two separate directions towards north.

    West
    The West ends at Kekek Quarry (4km by road/track from Ubin jetty), where ‘Thai temple’ once stood. This important landmark is now lost forever except for the road named after it – Jalan Wat Siam. The distance is longest and is best visited on wheels. There is a vehicle barrier at the end of the road but adventurous cyclists are still able to cycle up further. Some would swim at Kekek quarry to cool off. But it’s considered illegal trespass. The long downhill slope next to the Chinese cemetery (now renamed “coffee hill” probably see the most nasty bike falls so be careful.

    The German girl shrine is also located west within Ketam mountain bike park, with its cycling trails graded by level of difficulties, although it is not safe to take them at face value.

    Also, one should stop midway at ‘y u so like dat’ for drinks and a scenic view of Ubin Quarry. Puaka hill is nearby which is worth climbing to the top.

    Picture below. Thai monk sitting in front of his demolished temple.
    Thai monk

    East
    The path East ends at Chek Jawa (4 km by road from Ubin jetty). First timers should go there first especially when tides are at their lowest. You can also sign up for Chek Jawa tours organized by Naked Hermit Crabs.

    You will be passing the Malay kampung on the way to Chek Jawa. Worth stopping for refreshments and a relaxing view. There is a gaggle of hornbills that make their appearance around 5pm.

    Malay kampung house

    North (Marman beach)

    Marman beach is further up north from the Malay kampung. It used to be scenic until ugly fences were put as border barriers. From there, you can follow the river bank towards “Orchid Farm”, taking a shortcut by going through the rubber plantation and back to the Malay kampung.

    Marman beach
    Marman beach

    North (Noordin beach)

    Noordin beach

    The other trip north (3.2km by road from Ubin jetty) ends at Noordin beach. The trip requires some steep cycling which already caused some nasty accidents. Probably not worth going as the view at the beach itself is also marred by fences. Its popular among anglers and campers however. On Saturday nights you can hear dangdut music blaring away from the Malaysian side. Mosquitoes can be a nuisance due to nearby mangroves. A spooky place. Was referred as Noordin kampong on old maps. Used to have a Muslim cemetery nearby.

    Old map of Noordin beach(1000 metre scale)
    Old map of Noordin beach

    NPCC campsite is also located at Noordin Beach. Its also probably the most environmental unfriendly place in Ubin. Its all built up with its own concrete parade square. Its floodlights are turned on the whole night, disrupting roosting birds. The camp is fogged regularly for mosquitoes, exterminating other insects and affecting its natural predators. There is a lightning detector that runs loud warnings on an endless loops. It should seriously consider relocating back to the mainland.

    Click on the map below to enlarge.
    Map of Ubin

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    Ubin drownings – 2. February, 2009

    The most tragic happened on Sun 7 Feb 1999 at Sungei Jelutong (Google earth latlng 1.406330, 103.961155) when 2 schoolgirls from Raffles Girls Secondary drowned on the last day of a 3 day intensive outdoor adventure camp. Fatigue and underestimating natural forces led to the disaster.

    The scene of the fatal drownings (photo taken when river was at highest tide on 19 Mar 2011)
    ah ma drink stall

    DROWNING Just last week, two teenage girls drowned in an accident at Pulau Ubin. Rachel Wu Sikorski and Sharon Lee Ying Ying. Both seventeen years of age. Well liked, good looking, hard working, intelligent. A bright future ahead. Junior college students, on the last day of a 3 day camp. Fitted with life jackets: Paddling down a river on a makeshift raft.

    The river surface is deceptively calm. Caught in an undercurrent by a storm gate. The vortex of the undertow was fatal. They were trapped underwater against the storm gate until too late. By the time they were fished out they were drowned. Dead. Cardiopulmonary resuscitation was to no avail. Two young lives snuffed out. Link.

    Sungei Jelutong wetlands cover an area of 55 hectares. The volume of water draining in and out during tide changes is enormous as there are only 2 exits into the sea, south via Sungei Jelutong, north via Sungei Marman, both narrowed by sluice gates constructed decades ago for prawn catching. The current and pressure is so strong that snakes caught in the trawling nets were drowned. Its near impossible to paddle into the mouth of Marman river during receding tide. A Thai worker also drowned when he swam near the sluice gate at Marman to catch fish. Before both incidents, a girl drowned in Feb 1995 when she fell into Jelutong river while cycling crossing the bridge, prompting the authorities to build protective railings.

    There is also a freak accident which happened in 2010 where a old lady fell and drowned while fixing her well near Republic Poly camp.

    Older map of Pulau Ubin. Shaded in blue are all wetlands.
    Map of Ubin

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    After the rain – 28. January, 2009

    The air can be so pure and refreshing after the rain. Its time too for some candid pictures.

    Smoke break

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    Jack the wild boar – 28. January, 2009

    Jack the wild boar

    This is Jack. This wild boar was a piglet when it was injured and rescued about 14 years ago. Today, Jack’s growing tusk is about poke into its cheeks, causing lots of discomfort. Its about time for it to be cut.

    Update: 9 February 2009. Jack should be happier now. It was sedated before several volunteers were able to hold it still before cutting its tusks.


    Jack today

    Some visitors felt that Jack should be returned back to the wild. Its too domesticated for that now. Ubin lovers remember Priscilla, the female boar at Chek Jawa.

    Priscilla the wild boar

    Priscilla at Chek Jawa
    Photo courtesy of Wild Shores of Singapore

    You can see Jack at “Orchid Farm”, 180 meters south of Maman beach. Make sure you collect lots of rubber seeds from the rubber trees nearby that area. Jack loves them.

    Here is a link of another picture of Jack by Thomas Hoven. We all shared his feelings of Ubin.

    Thomas Hoven

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    Turtles, tortoises and terrapins – 25. January, 2009

    Sometimes you might come across turtles far away from water sources. These are actually terrapins.

    How to tell turtles, tortoises and terrapins apart.
    1. Turtles have webbed feet for swimming. They live mostly in the water.
    2. Tortoises feet are round and stumpy for walking on land. They live on the land.
    3. Terrapins have clawed feet. They live both on land and in water.

    Note:
    The word terrapin comes from an Indian word meaning ” a little turtle”.

    I found one while cycling in Ubin. I put it in a disused fishing net and released it back to the quarry lake.

    Terrapin

    There were 3 separate encounters after that. One on the mainland by the side a road. Looks like these creatures have a wanderlust during mating season.

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    Animal rescues – 25. January, 2009

    Ubin can be a unforgiving place for animals. There are thoughtless people who set wire snares to trap them. I have freed birds and monitor lizards from their traps. Sometimes Ubin residents would ask me to help their dogs who are injured. The Negasunt powder from Bayer is very effective against maggot wounds. They cost about $10 each and comes in a small plastic bottle through which powder is squeezed out. I would gave them away, knowing that the lives of many dogs have been saved. (Negasunt should not be used on cats however).

    How to apply. Leash the dog if possible, otherwise distract the dog with food. Invert the bottle and shake the powder towards the bottle opening, bring it close to the wound and give a quick squeeze. The dog may be startled and move away. Attempt again until the wound is covered with powder. Repeat a few days later.

    Here is the story of GI Jane. She was named GI because of her sheer will to live.

    GI Jane has an eye wound several days old. It was so bad that there is no tissue around her eyeball which is rolling in her socket. We mounted a rescue the next day. The distressed pooch was brought over to the mainland for treatment. The vet examined her eyes and informed us that there is nothing he can do. Maggots have eaten right into her skull and she needs to be put down to end her suffering.

    By a twist of fate, Mohan who is a seasoned animal rescuer decided to nurse her back to health despite the near impossible odds.

    GI Jane is now with PetVilla, a no-kill shelter. She looked none the worse after her near tragic experience.

    GI Jane

    Negasunt Powder from Bayer
    Negasunt

    Ticks infestation is also another problem I have to deal with often. The jungle is full of these bloodsuckers especially during wet seasons. Its so bad that ticks bloated with blood dropped off like popcorn just by brushing over the fur. In such environment ticks cannot be eradicated but can be minimized. For this I use carbaryl powder which is sold under the brand name Sevin. Its cheap and highly effective. I would dust the dogs and they and their sleeping areas would be free of ticks within a week.

    More pictures.

    This is April. She was dusted with Negasunt powder after being bitten by a monkey. Sadly she passed away a few months later.
    April

    Not a pretty sight. Negasunt stopped the wound from growing and the dog was saved.
    Large wound

    This is King Tut being carried by Mohan.
    King Tut

    Pulau Ubin dogs tend to be medium size with friendly temperament. Sometimes visitors see them as unwanted strays. Dogs can be highly intelligent if you read this interesting article on Moscow’s metro strays.

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    January in Ubin – 20. January, 2009

    January would be the best month to visit Ubin. The December rainy season is just over. The island is dry and breezy, skies are blue and the air is bright and clear. You don’t get weather like that too often. Its also perfect for photography.

    Clear skies

    A superzoom point-and-shoot camera is an ideal tool. A great all-round camera. Here are the pictures we got in a single day outing.
    Its a lucky day. Having a camera ready also make you more observant too.

    A buffy fish owl
    Buffy fish owl

    A golden web spider (Nephila pilipes)
    spider

    The pictures below are blurred. We were too excited.
    The elusive jungle fowl
    Jungle fowl

    A foraging bush pig
    Bush pig

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    Horseshoe Crabs – 19. January, 2009

    Recently, Discovery Channel aired a program showing how extracts from its blood can be used to test for life in space.

    We have these ‘space crabs’ in Ubin too.

    Unfortunately, these enigmatic oldest living creatures are seen by some as pests. The ones I saw are already dead. Fishermen says they tangled up nets and when caught, are left in the dry and die.

    Dead Horseshoe crabs

    Ubin has its fragile inhabitants. A family of otters move like nomads searching for food despite the abundance of mangroves and inland wetlands in Ubin. Flying foxes are extinct in Ubin when fruit plantations in Malaysia leave poisons on the trees. Smaller fruit-bats are seen less often now.

    Poaching is still going on. Several wild boar traps have been demolished by Nparks last year. Small birds were caught with fine nets and monitor lizards are trapped with large fish-hooks. Report to Nparks if you chance upon these traps.

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    Quick polls – 3. January, 2009

    Nothing serious, just for some readers interaction

    Have you visited Pulau Ubin before

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    Durians

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    Fishing at Pulau Ubin

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    Have you personally seen or felt the presence of a ghost before?

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    Nparks shelter – 3. January, 2009

    Nestled at the rubber plantation, this shelter referred to as Murai hut is our favorite.

    Npark Murai Hut

    It would be our base camp when we set out exploring at night.

    A family of small bats sometimes hide on the roof, making sounds that even spook paranormal investigators.

    Tap…tap…tap…tap…tap…tap….

    For thing for sure, it doesn’t sound like dirt raining down. Doesn’t sound like a rat or squirrel or some other rodents, cause they don’t “tapped.” Sticks falling? Leaves dropping? Stones? Its impossible. The sounds made were going slow, then randomly. Like beats playing on the drum. And going fast at the same time.

    This is where, fear had gripped us cold….

    Not like what others have imagined but this is a peaceful place. In the quiet of the night you may even see or hear wild pigs foraging for rubber seeds. Although getting rare, you can also see fireflies. Try turning off all lights for better night vision.

    The shelters are all lightning protected. Probably the safest place to be at during thunderstorms. They also serve as useful checkpoints with given names like “Murai”, “Punai”, “Pekakak”, “Beberek”. All four are good observation points to watch for wildlife.

    The names of the huts are Malay names for native birds.
    Murai – Magpie Robin (Copsychus saularis)
    Punai/Punai Tanah – Green-winged Pigeon, Emerald Dove (Chalcophaps indica)
    Pekakak – Kingfisher
    Beberek/Beberek Leher Biru – Blue-throated Bee-eater (Merops viridis)
    Kelichap – Hummingbird
    Belatok – Woodpecker
    Lang – Falcon?
    Chamar/Camar Batu – Tern
    Kedidi – Sandpiper
    Merbah – Bulbul
    Bubut – Coucal

    Update: 6th April 2009. Mousedeers were sighted in the rubber plantation nearby. They are shy and nocturnal animals so you can only spot them at night.

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    Malay Kampung – 3. January, 2009

    This is probably the most photographed kampung house in Pulau Ubin. Many more have been demolished.

    Beside the peaceful sunset view, one would find a family of hornbills flying about at the majestic durian tree nearby.

    Kampung House

    This is a beautiful kampung house nestled in the forest and deeply vulnerable to demolition crews. I always take a picture of it everytime I went by worried it might be the last time. I would tell my ten year nephew the house belongs to Shrek.

    Shrek house

    Its neighboring houses (below) has already torn down. I wish our Government bureaucrats comes up with more creative ideas like turning them into rain shelters. It will be lovely for tourists to sit in there waiting out the pouring rain.

    Gutted for demolition

    null

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    Maginot Line – 3. January, 2009

    These stakes may look nice during sunset. But can be an eyesore too.

    Maginot Line

    The stakes were built during the last financial criss to keep illegal immigrants from swimming in. They could wade in during low tide. But most would rather fly by air and overstay instead.

    Low tide

    Reminds me of the famous Maginot Line

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    Changi Jetty – 3. January, 2009

    There are 2 jetties with the same name, both more than 2 kilometers apart. The jetty for departures to Pulau Ubin is call “Changi Point Ferry Terminal”, it also go to and Pengerang, Johore. Only bumboats with maximum of 12 passengers are allowed to operate there.

    The other “Changi Ferry Terminal” used to depart for Desaru which you can drive your car on board.

    As many taxi operators are unfamiliar, it is important to repeat by saying “Changi Village Changi Point Ferry Terminal”.

    Typical of Singapore, roads and places are often badly named which causes lots of confusion (see forum posts)

    See also posts on getting there.

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    Ubin north shore – 3. January, 2009

    The track along north shores are seldom explored. But you can find a well maintained shrine.
    shrine

    Further on, you will stumble up a beautiful little stretch of deserted beach with unobstructed view over the horizon.

    shore

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    Stuck rain coat – 3. January, 2009

    Both mum and kid was riding tandem when his head got stuck.

    Picture 1

    Picture 2

    Picture 3

    Do be careful and make sure your rain coat do not get caught in the bicycle gears instead. It can yank a rider off the bike. There is a fatal story behind this.

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    Places to visit – 3. January, 2009

    Maybe a poll might help for your planned visit.

    Where would you like to explore or visit again?

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    Ghosts and spirits – 2. January, 2009

    Ubin islanders have ghost stories to tell. They tell stories how they got themselves lost at places they have been many times before. There is supposedly a ghost who cause people to walk in circles for hours.

    Campers at Noordin Beach claimed to have seen a screaming banshee dressed in white. Sounds very much like white herons flapping about at night. But then again one spirit medium says it was an unavenged ghost.

    I haven’t met any ghosts or spirits yet. Perhaps they have accepted me in their midst and decided not to frighten me. On the other hand the vibes are so strong that I don’t think I would dare ever camp or explore alone in the dark. Carrying several flashlights is reassuring. You know its time to run when all flashlights fail at the same time.

    The closest encounter I experienced was at Bukit Puaka area when my friend did not respond to us when we are just metres away in broad daylight. A minute later we were puzzled when he asked us how we ‘came here’. The lost sensation he felt was so eerie that he swore he met a ghost and will never go back there again. The puzzling event is even more mysterious when it was collaborated by another Ubin villager who related the same experience.

    Once during a durian hunt at Kekek quarry near Thai temple, a friend of mine found himself covered with fetid odors that he is convinced that the entrails holding Pontianak might be following him. He made prayers for protection, rang temple bell in the middle of the night and slept clutching a large knife.

    The stories should not stop one from exploring Ubin. Like wildlife, the spirits hide themselves when there visitors around. Its at the magic hour from 8pm to 10pm when ley lines opens up when one felt or see spirits in certain mysterious parts of Ubin.

    A lady felled off her bicycle and died nearby. Happened in Mar 2011.
    warning signs

    This hut in Ubin used by the dreaded kempeitai police during the Japanese occupation. SPI mediums claimed they saw spirits cowering in fear. The islanders were sad to see it demolished by land office.

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    Basic safety – 2. January, 2009

    Ubin is not an alternative shopping mall experience. I saw inexperienced people riding on tandem bike with their precious baby strapped behind. Unfortunately broken skulls do happen. And far too many have crashed and hurt themselves at steep gradients. Make sure your brakes work and work your brakes going downhill.

    Make sure the gears and brakes works well before you cycle out. Avoid cheap $5.00/day bikes and rent those $8.00-$12.00/day bikes. An old bike folded and collapsed resulting concussion and several stitches on my scalp. The island police will ferry the badly injured people to Changi Hospital. But many have to made their painful way to the hospital with severe gashes. Once I have to stop a bleeder with toilet paper when the girl fell squarely on her jaw from her bike.

    Cycle in single file and keep to the side of the road. My heart often skip a beat when I saw cyclists wobbling in front of passing vehicles.

    Family on tandem bike

    Otherwise be sensible and hire the island van taxis. You can charter them or $25/hr or negotiate for cheaper one way trip.

    The van operators are very friendly.

    This is Tien Song.
    Tien Song

    A great alternative is take a walk. The furthest point is not more than 2 hours walk away so 3 – 4 hours is sufficient. Get NPark maps (or download here) free at the visitor corner.

    Do not seek shelter under tall trees during rainstorms. Look for Npark shelters instead. Its either getting hit by lightning or get crushed by falling branches if you are unlucky enough. The NPCC cadet camp has a ‘lightning detector’ which when activated, runs endless warnings on their PA system.

    See links: emergencies, first aid kit

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    Bicycle crashes – 2. January, 2009

    This happened on 25 March 2011
    Heard about this from Ubin villagers. Text message from Ubin regular confirmed the tragic news.
    “China gal falling fr cycling at jln batu Ubin adjacent to ah lian durian plt down sloop [slope] chinese cemetery….she dies two day ago.”

    fatal bicycle accident

    Bike crashes is common in Ubin. There are many day trippers who ended their fun in Ubin prematurely.

    Bumpy slope

    Slopes seen in the above picture looks gentle but deceiving. The road bump at the bottom is effective only on four wheelers. Inexperienced cyclists lose control instead and there was one death reported on similar slopes like this.

    After the hard uphill ride, one looks forward to the adrenaline rush and coasting downhill. But Ubin roads and tracks were built during village days. The roads follows ridges and skirt around quarries and mangrove swamps in sharp turns.

    Slow down. Work the brakes as soon as you go downhill. This is the only time to stop the bike with your feet if the brakes are not working, which is also is why you should test ride before you rent them. Learn to apply enough force without locking the brakes. Coasting downhill without using brakes causes the most accidents. Obey warning signs at danger spots and dismount and push the bike. There are less falls during rainy days in Ubin when people tend to be more careful.

    During Public Holidays Ubin Police Coast Guard have their hands full ferrying injured riders. There was a recent accident that was so bad the cyclist was not moved until a doctor examined him at the scene.

    Police coast guard helping bike accident victim

    Ubin van drivers will happily point out the spot where Medicorp DJ Dennis Chew fell. Accident happened in May 2007. He had abrasions on his face, his left arm broken in two places, four chipped teeth and another tooth missing. Link

    Zhou Chong Qing, Dennis

    Here is another eyewitness story

    There was an horrific accident; we cycled down a muddy track and a small group of young people were gathered next to a young woman whom had fallen off her bike. She had a very nasty head injury (no helmet) and there was a huge pool of blood coming from her head.

    We were unable to assist as we have no first aid experience (must do something about that) and her friends were calling the rescue services on their mobiles.

    We cycled to a nearby refreshment stand and we noticed that it took 30 mins for the Pulau Ubin police to drive to the accident spot.

    Quite some time later (about 75 mins I think) we were at the jetty to get the ferry back to Changi; the young lady was on a stretcher and the paramedics had to drop her down into the police patrol boat.

    I do hope she will be OK…..my spouse thinks she must have cracked her skull open..

    Further links:

    See further links: Emergencies, first aid kit
    Painful Bike face plant

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    Sunset at Pulau Ubin – 1. January, 2009

    Sunset scene as seen from Pulau Ubiin jetty. Ubin jetty would be the best place for sunset photos before taking the last boat off the island. NEA provides sunrise and sunset times to catch the right moment when the sun dip into the distant horizon.

    Sunset

    Coconut trees at dusk
    coconut tree line

    Reflections from Changi beach shoreline on way back from Ubin
    reflections along shoreline

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    Spiders – 1. January, 2009

    There are large ones, this one built its web at eye level along a unused trail north of the island.


    spider

    A word to the arachnophobic (fear of spiders). Ubin forested areas are full of spiderwebs. Wave a stick or branch in front of you to catch them before your face does.

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    My favorite friends – RIP – 1. January, 2009

    Lucky

    Lucky is a fearless dog. He will chase any animals unless leashed and even have survived fights with cobras, killing them before they can react. I will take it for long walks nearly every weekend in Pulau Ubin.

    Lucky

    Razor

    Razor live at Noordin beach. She would often bury her food to last her through the week. We adopted Cookie, one of her pups.

    Razor

    Robin

    Robin recovered after being gored by a boar. She didn’t survive a cobra bite.
    Robin

    Poker.
    Poker found someone to adopt him. But by then he was too weak to live to a ripe old age.

    Poker

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    Encounters with wild animals at Pulau Ubin – 31. December, 2008

    Wild pigs will stampede when they are caught by surprise. Baby wild pigs with striped backs may run in panic towards you with their anxious mother behind them. Shout or make loud noises to let them know you are nearby so they have time to run the other way.

    Striped baby pigs

    Pulau Ubin wild monkeys are usually shy and avoid people. But in many places like Bali they associate food with humans and were known to attack people especially young children.

    Alpha male in Pulau Ubin watching over his troops.
    Macaque monkey

    There are cobras hiding in the bushes so don’t go tramping about.

    Shed cobra skin as pictured below.
    Cobra skin

    Pulau Ubin islanders wear long boots when searching for durians. But entire families from mainland would converge in Ubin hoping to find free durians.

    This dog “Robin” died from a single cobra bite.

    Robin RIP

    Blackie’s score is 3 dead cobras so far.

    Blackie the cobra killer

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    Site Map – 31. December, 2008

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    Pulau Ubin Police Checks – 31. December, 2008

    Many visitors and citizens alike are not aware of the need to carry your identity card or passport,. Do not ruin your day trying to explain yourself at the police station..

    Although, a jungle knife is important to cut through thick undergrowth and a life saver in an emergency, the whole country is in a lock-down following Mumbai city attacks. Its now a police investigation if they find any knife with you except maybe a Swiss Army Knife.

    For now, my Soyderco Rescue Knife is for cutting tomatoes.

    Rescue Knife

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    First Aid Kit – 31. December, 2008

    Here is a snapshot of my frequently used first aid kit.

    First Aid Kit.

    It contains cotton gauze and surgical tape to cover wounds. I found the disposable chlorhexidine wash solution very useful to clean wounds. Another plus about chlorhexidine wash is they are less painful when applied compared to water or alcohol swabs. Bought them from Guardian pharmacy.

    Here is a closeup.

    The little plasters are good for blisters before walking becomes nearly impossible.

    Muscle cramps are common due to over-exertion. Get a tube of “Tiger Balm Muscle Rub”.

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    DEET Repellent – 31. December, 2008

    It scientifically proven. Repellents containing DEET like OFF! will protect you for 3 to 6 hours. Those expensive citronella lotion or patch lasts less than an hour.

    Read what CDC has to say about DEET (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide).

    According to CDC, A product containing 23.8% DEET provided an average of 5 hours of protection from mosquito bites. DEET is used by Armed forces worldwide and about 200 million people globally used DEET each year. Its toxicology has been more closely scrutinized than other repellents and its deemed to be safe even on children and pregnant women.

    The mosquitoes in Ubin can be torture. The solutions we tried include burning egg cartons; coconut husks; mosquito coils; benzoin incense which bomohs use, ingesting vitamin E tablets. Nparks even set a high tech mosquito killing machine once.

    Despite my skepticism and myths, there are still a lot of interest in convenience repellents products. FWIW, you can check reviews by users and order them cheaply online.

    Super Mosquito 48-Hour Repelling Patch
    Digital Mosquito Repeller with Armband

    Forget the army “bug juice” types used during Vietnam war era and sold in Army shops. The DEET concentration is so high that it melts your digital camera plastic body.

    Bug juice

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    Contact Us – 31. December, 2008

    Please use the form below to send an email to the site administrator.

    All fields are required.


    Do not fill out this form field:

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    Weather in Pulau Ubin – 30. December, 2008

    National Environment Agency (NEA) website provides weather forecasts for the next 3 or 12 hours (shown on links at right.)

    Another source is this site showing satellite pictures of rain clouds 70 km away. You can determine if your Ubin trip needs postponing.

    Wind, Weather, Windsurfing and more – 70km Weather Radar Animation

    Its either hot, humid or get drenched in sudden tropical thunderstorms. Due to danger of lightning strikes, take the nearest lightning protected Npark rain shelters.

    Soaking wet in Pulau Ubin
    wet all over

    Disposal plastic raincoats are sold at Ubin village
    djsposable raincoats

    Taking mud bath to cool off
    mud bath

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    Sandflies bites – 30. December, 2008

    Their scientific name is Culicoides

    Sandflies bites are best avoided. It takes days or weeks to heal. The itchiness never go away and you scratch yourself until you bleed. They are often found near sea shores and are most active when the there is no wind and air is still. It only take minutes and you won’t notice their bites until its too late.

    We hate them too

    Even Ubin villagers are bothered by them so no one is immune or got used to them, Here are some awful experiences found in Google Search.

    The most effective ways I found so far it is apply intense heat to the bitten area without scalding. Methods include running a shower hose at the hottest setting; heating a spoon in hot water and apply the heated spoon directly on affected skin; or using a hair dryer to apply heat. Heat increases the blood flow which thins the allergic toxins. Medical oil and balms work the same way. My favorite is “Po Sum On” medicated oil. Doctors may prescribe topical cortisone creams but it did not relieve itching in my case.

    Prevention is always best. Use DEET repellents like “OFF!”. You can buy them at most pharmacies in Singapore. The price for “OFF” Prices range from $7.50 to $8.50.

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    What to wear/bring – 30. December, 2008

    Pulau Ubin is a place to take your eco-holiday. Its means lots of cycling or walking over uneven terrain. Avoid high heels to avoid falls and broken ankles.

    High heels
    cyclist on high heels

    Pulau Ubin can get very hot, so wear something light and avoid black colored clothing which absorb heat. There are other preferences though.

    Wearing a US$200 hiking skirt for men.
    hiking skirt

    All covered up
    all covered up

    Another thing most visitors are not prepared for are mosquitoes and sandflies bites. We would often see them scratching themselves. Its too late by then and the itching going to last for days. Get a can of spray repellent. My favorite is “Off!” brand. It contains DEET that keep the most determined mosquitoes and the dreaded sandflies away. Costs around $7.50 to $8.50. The provision shops in Ubin sell them also.

    Off Repellent

    Sunblock lotion. Except for eastern parts of Ubin towards Ketam cycling trail, there are plenty of tree cover so sunblock is optional or wear a hat instead.

    Make sure you bring along a first aid kit. Especially when in a group with inexperienced members. Most accidents result in minor skin abrasions. A bottle of mineral water helps wash away dirt and use some cotton gauze and bandages to cover wounds.

    Water is important too. Dehydration from sweating can result in painful muscle cramps. Make sure you bring bottled water as the water at NPark public toilets cannot be drank as its not treated.

    Finally, bring some snacks along and some disposable rain coat in event of a sudden downpour. You can buy these at Ubin provision shops.

    emergency poncho

    Caught in the rain
    wet boy

    Wearing flip flops and cycling with with terrified kid
    terriified kid

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    Pulau Ubin chaotic queues – 30. December, 2008

    Previously there are no traffic marshals except on festive occasions. Some boatmen took advantage of this by picking and choosing their fares. They would take passengers with bicycles who has to pay extra for their bikes. They also take larger groups ahead of those waiting before them.

    In event if there is no marshal around, take control of the situation by forming a queue instead of milling around.

    If it is getting late and there are still no joining passengers, pay extra so you can leave immediately. The boatman will oblige as long he gets his full $30 or $2.50 from each 12 passengers. Do the math and pay him the difference. If there are 6 of you ask everyone if they agree to to pay $5.00 instead.

    Update: 26 Jan 2008. First day of Chinese New Year. The queue was so long it stretches for 80 metres until it finally cleared at 9pm. We decided to camp overnight instead.

    Update: 8 Aug 2010. The traffic marshals done a great job. Despite the large crowds enjoying National day long weekend, queues lines moved smoothly along.

    Boat Ride

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    Hello world! – 30. December, 2008

    I hope its not just another blog. I realized it is 10 years since I first brought my first digital camera (A Sony Mavica FD 71) to record Ubin rapidly disappearing scenes .

    The post will contain some of the retrieved pictures plus current ones.

    Update July 30, 2010
    Wordpress 3.0.1 is out. This time I am not able to update manually. Keep getting permissions errors. Have to install manually. Followed the on-line instructions . The update worked despite forgetting to disable the plugins first.

    Update June 18, 2010
    Wordpress 3.0 is here. I am not sure what new benefits are there. But it safer to update instead of being left behind and having to update over many version and getting into potential problems. I maintained another site which is just a sandbox to try out the new update before committing myself. So far the automated upgrade has worked, except for plugins which I have to update manually using cpanel file manager. Google Analytics plugin is a boon as I can see the latest queries by visitors, allowing me to update most sought information.

    Update Apr 16, 2010:

    This site is hosted using services of Poznet.com under their SG-Personal Plan.

    This package enabled me to use WordPress which I am able to download and install. WordPress is a versatile tool where you can install all kinds plugins and skins to give a customized look. All you need next is to blog your content and not worry about technical stuff like dealing with incompatible browsers or writing HTML tags. Unfortunately installing WordPress with its frequent updates is often the scariest part. One has to learn arcane stuff only a geek would know, such as creating a subdomain, setting up a mysql database, using built-in cpanel file-manager tool which is akin to holding a live grenade. Luckily I have a nephew who is a whiz in all this.

    For images I am now using free Google tools such as Picasaweb which is far better than Flickr which I was using earlier. For traffic analysis I using GoogleAnalytics. This way I am able to find out what kind of information internet users are looking for and update them.

    As for camera equipment I am now using Sony A850 35mm full-frame digital SLR camera. Besides its archival value with 24 megapixels of image detail, its colors are simply awesome.

    This blog owe its thanks to Ubin lovers like KP Tan who have been discovering Ubin long before I first visited the island. And also to Ria who encouraged me to keep blogging on Ubin.

    If you have any pictures of Ubin, old or new, which you like to share them. Please leave our comments with your email (your email will not show in the comments). My special thanks to Ronald Koh who give me permission to post his photos.

    Enjoy Ubin and hope to see you there often.

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    Panorama – Ketam Mountain Bike Park – 27. December, 2008

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    Panorama – German Girl Shrine – 26. December, 2008

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    Panorama view of Ubin Jetty – 26. December, 2008

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    Panorama – Ubin Highest Point – 26. December, 2008

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    Panorama – Orchid Farm – 26. December, 2008

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    Panorama – Malay Kampung – 25. December, 2008

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    Panorama – Old Muslim cemetery – 25. December, 2008

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