Archive for January, 2011

 

Edward Scissorhands tree – 15. January, 2011

Edward Scissorands Poster

Like the movie story of a man with scissors for hands. This tree in a secret part of Pulau Ubin has barbed wire for its branches.

barbed wire tree

Close up view
tree with barb wire hands

Like any tropical jungles, trees and plants fought over every inch of available ground to grow, overcoming any obstacles. This row of young saplings simply swallowed the barbed wire fence above it and made it a part of their branches.

There is another tree in a far away land that ate a whole bicycle. As the story goes, a boy went to war in 1914 and left his bike chained to a tree. The tree ate the bike and it remains to this day. (This charming story is probably untrue).

bicycle eating tree

Share
Posted in Uncategorized

Durian season – 3. January, 2011

Durian season 2010
The durians in Ubin are dropping at its peak. It will be all over in a week or so. We camped overnight determined not to miss out. The durian trees nearby are known to have the best tasting durians.

Unlike commercially harvested durians, Ubin durians are harvested from the jungle floor as the ripe ones drop, sometimes from a great height, its spiky skin strong enough to absorb any hard landing.

We can only hear muffled thuds so its not easy to locate durians by sound. The first step is shine our flashlights at the tree to check where the durians are hanging in numbers, this will give us an idea where to look as they roll hidden in the bushes. Still, they are easy to miss, you need a keen nose to catch a slightest whiff, so we would not consume any durians until the hunt is over in order to preserve maximum sense of smell.

Durian night hunt

Picture of durian tree. Click to zoom in.
Tree full of durians

Suddenly a durian dove straight towards us. There is no time to react, it shatters right between us with a loud thump. The durian exploded inches from my feet, bounced and spikes into my friend’s calf, drawing blood. We have been lucky, it could have smash our faces as we looked up. The durian was already rotting. Durians get watery and some rot on the branches from too much rains.

The durian that nearly hit us.
durian

The rains also brought in mosquitoes in huge numbers, we covered ourselves with expensive spray repellents and planted no less than 10 mosquito coils around our camp area, having run out of egg cartons to burn.

Although the harvest is plentiful, we were contented with 7 durians. Other diligent groups got more. There are small shelters built under the trees, keeping the occupants dry and safe from falling durians. Others use electric bikes, criss-crossing the island revisiting each durian grove.
Updated: 10 July 2010

————————
Took leave. Camped overnight for the past 2 weekends. We heard that Ubin durians are beginning to fall and were excited. Unfortunately we were too early. There were unriped durians on the grounds with teeth marks. Like us humans, monkeys are also excited and plucked the durians too early before they ripen. We sheepishly accepted durians from Mr. Lim, a Ubin villager staying at Marman “Orchid farm”.

We were again unsuccessful on the second week. There were durians pickers camped under the trees. One sat motionless for hours, coming into life on sounds of durians dropping. They would race towards the spot where they heard the durians drop. These people must have heard tales of thousands of dollars earned picking free durians. There is a family of 10 brothers earning $10,000 picking free durians or $1,000 for each brother. Small sums for many but there are lots of poor folks in Singapore.

We only managed to get one before they came running over. During to the rainy season and the cooler weather this year, the durians were watery and bland, quickly fermenting within space of several hours, unlike the previous seasons where they tasted a lot better.

It looks like we have to go to remote parts of Ubin for our durian hunt.
Updated: July 01, 2010.
————————

Durian seasons come to Ubin twice a year. The major one lasts a few weeks and no one knows the exact dates. The first sign is the abundance of durian flowers, indicating the season is about to due in a few months.
Some durians will fall earlier but these are usually premature durians. Fully ripened durians will fall a few weeks later and lasting for about 6 weeks. Other tropical fruits also ripen at the same time including rambutans, mangosteens, dukus and langsat.

Ubin durians are a treat. In the midst of the hot season, the durians are expected to be more fragrant too They are your organic varieties having been left abandoned by islanders who resettled a long time ago. Being older varieties without the benefits of modern cultivating techniques, Ubin durians are tough to open with flavors that vary from tree to tree. Use gloves and a “durian knife” to pry open.

During durian season, entire families would converge heedless of snakes that may hide in the bushes. Ubin villagers usually wear “phua chu kang” boots to protect themselves while gathering durians. Some even use umbrellas to protect themselves from falling durians.

Q. Why durians drop at night
Durians drop during the day too, although more at night. From the same tree, its durians will drop over several weeks, but sometimes they hang tantalizingly for weeks and are suddenly gone in a week or so. Once ripen, the frequency seems to in favor when temperatures dip or rise quickly when night come or when dawn breaks. Strong gusts of wind will also bring about unexpected bonus. Which is why picking durians is a waiting but rewarding game.

As durians usually drop at night, there are brave ones who stake out at cemeteries waiting for the loud thuds of durians falling. You need a trained eye plus a strong flashlight to find them as they roll into shrubs and bushes.

Update: 19 June 2010.
Durians are beginning to fall and we were excited for a night of adventure and durian hunting. Have bought a couple of new flashlights to try out including my favorite lights. They include:

Zebralights H60 Headlamp 18650 Flood.
HDS CR123a Ra Clicky ExecutiveTM Flashlight (General purpose)
Quark CR123x² Turbo (For throw)

I am bringing LED lights for its weight, excellent run-times, super brightness, and good color rendition. Qualities that are essential for durian searching.


If you intend to find some. Just follow your nose and look for them on the forest floor. Sometimes you hear a lucky thump of durians which has just fallen. Make sure you rent a bicycle with basket, like this lucky couple did. You also need repellents to deter mosquitoes from feasting on you.

Durians on bicycle basket

Don’t congratulate yourselves too soon if you find durians on the floor. They are probably bad if they are discolored and smell a bit off, Those with bites marks are from frustrated monkeys who cannot get through the though shell.

Unseen, the wild boars are waiting too. During the night, they would push the durians against the forest floor with their tough snouts until the durians split open like flower petals. By morning only empty husks remained. Many ‘ghosts encounters’ were results of mistaking these pigs or islanders trying to scare people away from collecting durians.

Although durian gathering can be fun, there are ‘geylang types’ from mainland Singapore who act as if the trees are theirs. They would intimidate others including Ubin villagers who come near, loudly proclaiming their ‘ownership’. Its not true of course.
First post
—————-

Durians

View Results

Loading ... Loading ...
Share
Posted in Uncategorized

Wild Pigs – 1. January, 2011

Their scientific name is Sus scrofa

This is Jack, probably the most photographed pig in Pulau Ubin.

Jack the wild pig

With a population of 500 boars, they managed very well to hide themselves.

Instead you will see a lot of freshly churned top soil as they dig with their snouts for earthworms. Their favorite snacks include rubber seeds and durians.

Consider yourself lucky when you encounter them. The older big ones may do a mock charge. Just shout to frighten it away.

Smaller younger ones may even feed close to you and are not wary of humans.

pigs feeding with cat

Even up close they are so pre-occupied with eating that we were able to take pictures up close.

Up close

Avoid baby pigs with little stripes. Mum is around and she can be very protective.

Striped piglet. Photo taken at Chek Jawa.
Baby pigs with stripes

Sometimes you may come across their nest. Be cautious, the nest are used by other boars to hide in also.

Pigs nest

Coconuts torn open by boars. Their snouts are that strong.
Torn coconuts

Coconuts are also used as bait to set traps. Report to Nparks should you encounter such traps. Some poachers even use leg clamp traps that are danger to unsuspecting humans and pets.

Wild pig traps

Update: Jan 2011

Wilds pigs also feed on shorelines and mangrove swamps for their favorite shellfish. Herds would sometimes swim across the Straits of Johore looking for new source of food. To them, and to tigers when Singapore is just a fishing village, the Johore Straits is just another large river similar to those in Malaysia. Which is one one hear news of occasional wild pigs that lost their way into mainland Singapore. Its too bad they are seen as free pork like free fruits during Ubin’s durian season. People here would launch themselves in avid discussions how how they should be cooked instead of viewing them as living links to mother earth.

Lokan clams with ample meat are among their favorites. Speaking of lokan clams, an old Malay lady was gathering them when she came face to face with a boar which she mistook for a tiger, causing a tiger scare where signs were put out warning everyone by authorities. There are still false alarms since. Anyone with photo of the warning signs to share?
lokan clams

Share
Posted in Uncategorized

Internet searches – 1. January, 2011

This site uses Google Analytics to monitor search terms. Here are some of the search terms used which will be developed into full posts later. Meanwhile, I am updating them here in a Q & A format.

Q. Busiest period in Pulau Ubin.

Weekends and Public holidays are usually crowded with visitors. It get worse during long weekends holidays and successive holidys like Chinese New Year. There would be long queues under hot sun at both Changi point ferry terminal and Pulau Ubin jetty and long wait ordering food. Most bikes are rented out too.

On the other hand, its quiet during weekdays and passengers have to wait much longer for boats to fill up. But Ubin is more tranquil and shy animals more likely to be seen.

Normal weekends would be the best with frequent boat departures from Ubin until 7.30pm when visitor level dwindles down.

Q. Best times to visit Pulau Ubin.

Do check links on this site for the current temperature range. Anything above 31°C would be stifling hot. The other is to check the peak tides which coincide with refreshing breezes.

December to March is cooler which coincide with North East Monsoon, along with arrivals of migratory birds. Haze from Indonesia may occur during prolong periods of dry weather from June to September, affecting sensitive lungs and reduced visibility for photography. On the other hand, its durian season plus opportunities to photograph island festivals.

Q. Internet access in Pulau Ubin

There are no internet cafes on Pulau Ubin so you’ll need to use 3g wireless access. Make sure your signals are not picked up by Malaysian telcos to avoid ‘bill shock’.

Update: Jan 2012, Starhub has apparently cleaned up their act, their signals stayed locked throughout the whole day while we were trekking. My friend is able to browse and surf faster than in mainland Singapore.

Q. Dengue fever and Malaria outbreaks in Pulau Ubin?

There are no outbreaks in recent knowledge. Visitors get bitten by mosquitoes and inevitably worry about risks of getting dengue or malaria so bring along a mosquito spray. Those containing DEET are most effective. You can also click on www.dengue.gov.sg for current information.

Q. Nparks Toilets

This is an important question. Especially for those who prefer to hold their bladders than to do it in the bushes. The toilets are located far apart at beaches like Noordin Beach, Marman Beach, Jelutong Beach, the visitor centre at Ubin village and at Chek Jawa. Make sure you bring your own toilet rolls as selfish visitors are known to have taken entire rolls for their own use.

toilet rolls from Nparks

See the solar panel on top of the toilets roof? The flushes are sun-powered. But not when it rains with dark clouds for days. Then they stop working and the disgusting stuff stacked almost to the brim.

Q. Are you allowed to bring alcohol to Pulau Ubin?

I supposed its easy to form that impression, going through the X-ray security checking and seeing fences with razor concertina barriers. Although rare now, the Police Coast Guards even conduct passport checks on innocent looking tourists. Beers and cigarettes are sold in Pulau Ubin village provision shops. Duty paid alcohol and smokes are allowed in just like in the mainland.

Q. Bringing dogs to Ubin

Pets on ferry

A. You may bring your pets to Pulau Ubin with you. Only a small minority of city dwellers are terrified of animals, so you may have to charter the boat if they object. In such situation, organize among yourselves and top up the fares ($30 total) if there are not enough passengers. Also note that there are no clear rules if they are transported in pet crates while some boatmen are forever looking for ways to make a quick buck. Hopefully relevant parties take this up with MPA or report them with their boat numbers if you think you have been taken advantaged of. At the island, make sure you leash your pet for its own safety. Make sure heartworms shots are up to date due to prevalence of mosquitoes.


Pets on ferry

Q. Are there restaurants serving wild boar meat in Ubin.

We were camping in Ubin when an old man approached us asking where the barbershop at. A strange question indeed and when we asked around, there was a barbershop, a school and a government medical dispensary but its all gone now. Like Rip Van Winkle, your knowledge also out of date. In modern Singapore, eateries are only allowed to order game meat from approved sources for heath and disease control. Selling of bushmeat is otherwise illegal. Our ever creative chefs in mainland Singapore will however use fresh market pork, overcook it with heavy curry powders and gave it fancy names like wild boar, venison, even dog meat.

Q. PRC woman fell and died while cycling in ubin. (Cycling accident on 25 march 2011)

fatal bicycle accident

Bicycle crashes are common in Pulau Ubin, and once in a while someone get killed. Its big news on domestic media which overseas visitors are not aware. They see everyone renting bikes and assume its safe. As human beings we have natural fear of heights and water but no such fear when it come to coasting downhill until its too late. I think its time we should put up a large skull and crossbones warning signs instead of multiple ones which everyone seem to ignore.

multiple warning signs

Related post on bike crashes

Q. Ubin drownings.

See separate post

Q. Where can we swim.
A. Try Noordin beach for swimming at the beaches. Water at the straits which was declared polluted is now cleared as of 21 Jan 2012. “Only 3% of the water samples collected along Pasir Ris Beach had enterococcus counts greater than 200 per 100 ml, compared to 7% in 2010″ and the public is advised “to avoid touching mouth/eyes with their hands which were in contact with sand/water.”
The quarry lakes is the best but closed for public safety. My NZ friend told me its warm and almost better than the lakes in his Christchurch hometown.

Swimming in quarries is not allowed

Q. Beach safety during high tide

Ubin beaches are not affected by strong sea currents unlike Sentosa where drownings had occurred. . At low tide, you can walk quite a distance away from shore with special guided tours at Chek Jawa organized by Nparks. But not all parts are navigable. Danger lurks at river mouths or streams flowing out to sea. The mud there are soft and its a struggle to free your legs from the sucking muck up to waist. You can struggle until high tide comes in. Best is to head back. There was an accident where a woman and her child drowned while clam digging at Kranji. Visibility was then poor due to rain. The unfortunate woman mistook the lights in Johore as landfall and walked further to sea while the tide came in.

Q. Rock temple of Ubin.

There is one mentioned in Joseph Lai Earth blog. Its located in Outbound Bound School and is not accessible to the public. You can find it in Dr. Chua Ee Kiam book – Pulau Ubin : Ours to Treasure. Would appreciate very much also if any readers, especially those from OBS, can share his/her latest pictures of Ubin’s rock temple.

Q. Chinese cemetries in Pulau Ubin.

There are 2 Chinese cemeteries in Ubin. They are named ‘Kg. Bukit Coffee’ and ‘Kg. Sungei Tiga’ respectively by Nparks. The first is located near Jalan Wat Siam.

The older one is located at Jalan Batu Ubin. According older folks who lived there since young, the cemetery is more than a century old. Its caretaker said its much older at more than 150 years. Being small, the plots were a mixture of designs of different eras and generations apart. The cemeteries were closed in the 1990s.

Grave plot meant for a two. Unfortunately, the surviving spouse would be interred in the mainland as the cemetery has been decommissioned.
chinese graveplot

Q. How to avoid ghosts on Pulau Ubin.

A. Fear of ghosts is perfectly natural among young people and its part of growing up. To avoid, stop your imagination from running wild by avoiding Asian ghosts movies and telling each other ghosts stories.

Q. Ubin Japanese ghost stories.

A. The Japanese invading army landed first landed in Ubin in WWII when the 5th Imperial Guards made a feint attack. The main attack from the western side would come a day later. Ubin however did not suffer from atrocities committed by sadistic occupation forces. There was no recollection of massacre sites in Ubin by the 101 year old headman of Pulau Ubin, Mr Lim Chye Joo, who have since passed away in 2006.

The villagers felt the island was protected by its resident Tua Pek Kong diety.

So feel relaxed and play songs of your favorite Japanese band.

Q. Na Tuk Kong (拿督公) Added Jan 2011.

Na Tuk Kong are said to be supernatural beings resident to a particular area. Shrines are built at places where people have encounters. Their presence are also felt by strong kemayan incense. The shrine structure, which is usually painted yellow, might appear empty except for a piece of granite rock compared to the small Na Tuk Kong statuette at the German Girl Shrine. Prayers are offered for lottery strike and good fortune. Two of such shrines can be found in Ubin, one near Murai Hut along Marman river and the other on the remote north east of the island.

Na Tuk Kong Shrine
Na Tuk Kong Shrine

Shrine interior
Shrine interior

Q. Running in Pulau Ubin
There are two guys I know who run there every weekend. Using Nparks shelters as landmarks, their favorite circuits are
1) Murai, Kelicap, Pekakak, Punai, Beberek, Murai. The distance is about 3.8km with 2 steep and 2 gradual inclines, running with traffic.
2) Murai, Marman beach, Orchid farm, Rubber plantation dirt track, Murai. The distance is 2.1 km with 1 gradual incline, running facing traffic for the first part.
Small hazards include startled animals (they either fight or flee) so avoid running in total silence.

Q. Tigers in Pulau Ubin

What are seen now are tiger beers sold at Pulau Ubin provision shops while the Chinese temple nearby has a tiger god shrine. Other than that, there would be occasional tiger scares due to by mistaken identity. In the book, Indiscreet Memories: 1901 Singapore Through the Eyes of a Colonial Englishman, tigers were observed to “swim over from Johore to Ubin, take a breather there, and complete the journey to the [mainland] island, landing at [Changi] Fairy Point, and giving birth to their young in that neighbourhood”

Q. Salt from fresh water brought by wind in ubin quarry?

The disused quarries nearer to the sea coast tastes saltier due to saltwater intrusion. This is also the reason why quarrying have to be stopped as PWD (Public Works Department) set depth limits for safety reasons. Already the earth along Jelutong Road section bordering Pekan Quarry have shifted prompting Nparks to close it. For this reason, it is unlikely the quarries will ever be re-opened for granite extraction. Singapore is now importing granite from places as far away as China.

Share
Posted in Uncategorized


Page optimized by WP Minify WordPress Plugin