Qingming in Ubin – May 13th, 2012

Qingming Festival is when Chinese people visit the graves or burial grounds of their ancestors. In Ubin, it is a muted scene with 2 chinese graveyards much smaller than in main-land Singapore. Before the festival, families would arrange to have caretakers clear and remove overgrowing vegetation. It also allows me the opportunity to revisit and take scenes that may be gone forever. There is little time to waste, all the more so when large swatch of Bukit Brown cemetery will soon make way for highway development. The 2 cemeteries sit on high ground and land developers must be salivating and coveting now.

Qingming is also the time when weather clear with calm seas for fishing after the stormy north east monsoon. I was lucky to be able to take photos of picturesque bumboats converging into Ubin jetty on a beautiful afternoon.

bumboats

There are two Chinese cemeteries in Ubin. They are named ‘Kg. Bukit Coffee’ and ‘Kg. Sungei Tiga’ respectively by Nparks. The first is located near Jalan Wat Siam.

The older one, which is more than a 150 years old, is located at Jalan Batu Ubin. Being small, the plots were a mixture of designs of different eras and generations apart. The cemeteries were closed in the 1990s.

Grave plot meant for a two. Unfortunately, the surviving spouse would be interred in the mainland as the cemetery has been decommissioned.
chinese graveplot

Some graves may be bare with granite headstones, others are decorated with oxide paint colored tiles that do not fade, showing scenes of tranquility of moutainscapes with flying birds and waterfalls.

grave tiles

There is also a tile which distinct outline of a church. Although Christian and Chinese Toaist graves are segregated, one wonders if a Christian person was buried there.

tiles with scene of a church

Are there any Christian graves in Pulau Ubin? The Nature Society once did a survey but did not find any, even going to the extent by asking a Catholic family who lived there for generations. The mystery may be settled, there is indeed one, we have not been looking at the right place, the grave caretaker described it to me and which I am anxious to find out. It may take me a while to post as many interesting events have taken place in May.

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Noordin Beach – March 11th, 2012

Noordin beach

Noordin beach is located north of Pulau Ubin 3.2km away by road from Ubin jetty ends. On bicycle, the trip requires some cycling uphill which have already caused some nasty accidents. The view at the beach is marred by fences, built by the Ministry of Home affairs aka “Home team” to keep out illegal immigrants seeking jobs during the previous Asian financial crisis.

Border fences with razor sharp wires on rotting base.
Bordee fences

Noordin beach is popular among anglers and campers with its one kilometer stretch of deserted beach best visited during low tide.

Noordin deserted beach
Noordin deserted beach

Old map of Noordin beach(1000 metre scale)
Old map of Noordin beach


Noordin today

Noordin beach is in danger of disappearing due to soil erosion, caused largely by boat wake from fast moving ferries plying between Johore Bahru and Indonesia Bintan Island. The ferries has reduced their speeds, but damage continues as we would hear occasional loud roars of their engines as they sped past.

Johore Bintan ferry

Erosion damage.
Boat wake erosion

Swimming is allowed at Noordin beach. NEA has declared our beaches safe for swimming due to their acceptable low fecal count but the public is still advised “to avoid touching mouth/eyes with their hands which were in contact with sand/water”, meaning do not snorkel or put your head under water.

Filter feeders such as green mussels and other bi-valves, which thrive in pristine waters, were common in the past but are now becoming rare, indicating continuing presence of other pollutants and effluents still being discharged into open sea.

20 Mar 12. Thousands of dead fish seen at Pasir Ris riverbank.

History of Jalan Noordin

Jalan Noordin derives its name from Kg. Noordin whose inhabitants have since moved out. Among its inhabitants were Orang Lauts who are nomadic fisher-folks, with their kampungs built on stilts at edges of river mouths.

Most features of Kg. Noordin has been obliterated. A contractor who illegally flattened the area for soil reclamation was forced by the Government to refill it back to its original height, unfortunately with weak marine clay.

Eroded hill base of marine clay

marine clay landfill

Noordin beach is a favorite swimming spot among British colonial forces and their families with its beautiful granite boulders, most which are now gone.
Noordin granite boulders

Noordin beach is probably the most known spooky place, with ghost stories that are passed on orally from one generation of kids to another. The Nparks toilet at the knoll was once a seafood restaurant. A Chinese burning tower is next to it, its dome glowing eerily on a moonlight. There is the so-called blue house where a ghostly apparition was seen which is just a house with its doors painted blue, the lady of the house has a habit of brushing her hair by the window.


Chinese burning tower

Noordin beach is accessible via Jalan Noordin which cuts through a vast interior wetlands. Crocodiles once lurked there, Ubin village centenarian headman, who have since passed away, recalled a person who was attacked and killed by a croc when Singapore was then Japanese occupied Syonan-to. The bridge where the accident happen would be flooded when tides reach 3.3 metres in height but is safe to cross however.

Noordin beach during high tides

The swamp is home to rarely seen otters and its location known to Nature society people. Its proximity to the beach makes the whole area buzzing with biting insects so repellents are necessary to endure them.

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Traditional food packaging – February 14th, 2012

Singapore may be clean but not eco friendly. Its disturbing to see our supermarkets freely dispensing plastic grocery bags. Pulau Ubin is no exception with its rubbish bins overflowing during weekends with litters along cycling tracks.

We were reminded an era before us where rubbish were nearly all organic waste when food are wrapped with broad leaves. The friendly malay lady would cook delicious mee goreng served on freshly cut banana leaves for us .

Traditional meal served on banana leaf
banana leaf

One time she ran out of banana leaves and used another substitute. Its broad leaves and its abundance make it suitable to wrap fish and food in wet markets. They are familiar to every army conscripts which is probably why they are not common any more.

Often abbrev. as CB leaf. mil. slang The large, oval, prominently-veined leaf of a plant, Dillenia suffructicosa, with showy yellow flowers (sometimes called the CB plant), poss. known in Malay as simpoh (simpuh, simpur) ayer (but see quot. 1955 below), the split stalk of which is said to resemble the vulva. It is usu. avoided by soldiers for camouflage purposes. Link

CB Leaf with its embarrassing end trimmed off.
CB Leaf

Another leaf used for wrapping steaming hot food and for its excellent flavor enhancing is the betel nut frond. Locals called them “Opeh” leaves. These palm trees used to be abundant in Pulau Ubin. They need lots of sunlight to thrive and numbers are declining due to competition from fast growing trees and creepers. You can find healthy specimens at Chek Jawa near the observation tower.

Betel nut tree
betel nut tree

Food wrapped with betel nut frond base.
betel nut frond

Petiole-base of palm frond
flaring petiole-base of palm frond

Rice dumplings or “Bak Chang” are wrapped tightly in bamboo leaves, tied up with strings and cooked in boiling cauldrons of water. In Pulau Ubin you can find different varieties of bamboo trees also.

Traditional ‘Nonya changs’ also use giant pandan leaves for wrapping. The leaves are taken from the same family with broader leaves. You can find a lone one beside the ponds along Jalan Ubin.

Giant pandan tree.
giant pandan tree

Useful links – Good Morning Yesterday

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Flooding on Christmas Eve – January 4th, 2012

Christmas day for 2011 is expected to be a wet, with NEA issuing warnings of localized flash floods with high tides that coincide with rains from North East monsoon.

The rains did not discourage us from camping on Christmas eve. It have been a magical night for us in the past. Once 3 piglets came out from the bush and came near us.

piglets on christmas eve

Despite heavy rain forecasts, the rains were however light. We were able to walk to the jetty to see if the anglers were lucky. 2 tourists with luggage were stranded, they arrived late at 10pm and there are no transport to the Ubin only resort 2.5km away. Fortunately we were able make phone contacts which must been a great relief for them.

There was another surprise waiting for us when we headed back to our camp. We found the village square ankle deep in seawater that rose with the tide. This is unexpected as high tide for the night was 3.36m, which is not as high compared the year high of 3.65m on 20 Feb 2011.

Flooding on Christmas eve – Picture by Andy Ho
ubin village flooded

Tides pushing seawater into Ubin village on 20 Feb 2011
minor flooding

Googling turn out a treasure trove of information. Sea-level at Straits of Johore (between Johore and Singapore) are higher compared to other parts of Singapore due to North-east monsoon winds pushing water and currents into the straits, which is further blocked by Singapore-Johore causeway.

Sea level anomalies higher than 30cm would result in the flooding we observed that night. Checking MPA records for Tanjong Pagar tide station for the same night also confirmed tide anomaly of +0.34m. The reverse of -0.2m would occur during south-west monsoon when the straits become a shelter instead.

We saw earthworms wriggling to higher surface to escape saltwater. The effect can be catastrophic as seawater pushes further inland. Durian trees and other land plants die when their roots are submerged.

Along with global warming and rising sea levels causing frequent floods, monsoon surges is another major factor as our island state struggles to contain and manage.

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